Author Archives: travelwithconnie@aol.com

Paris Pied-a-Terre and Paris Market

We arrived Paris eager and exhausted.  Our hostess, April Tash, met us on the Boulevard at 4:30 p.m. and spent over two hours chatting with us about the area, fascinating history of our apartment, and we even took a stroll of the neighborhood with April as she pointed out the boulangerie, pharmacie, wine shop, cafes, mini market, and the freshwater spring that still supplies the drinking water of the neighborhood.  Below are photos of our apartment, beginning with arriving at the door on the street, then to the inner courtyard, and finally up a flight of very old stairs to the second floor.

Entry Door to 11 rue Moulin des Pres

Entry Door to 11 rue Moulin des Pres

Behind entry door a passageway to courtyard

Behind entry door a passageway to courtyard

Starting down the courtyard

Starting down the courtyard

The courtyard is very old and uneven

The courtyard is very old and uneven

Walking down the courtyard is stepping back in time.  Our neighborhood is a working class neighborhood with mixed tenants, some very poor and others well off.  April, herself, is Harvard educated and works at the United Nations.  Obviously April is not poor.  But on the courtyard, you see spaces in front of other apartments fixed up for a garden, a patio area with table, and other things, some looking a step above a tenement, some looking cared for, but very mixed.

Family's patio area in courtyard

Family’s patio area in courtyard

Window geraniums in Courtyard

Window geraniums in Courtyard

Gardening in the Courtyard

Gardening in the Courtyard

At the very far end of the courtyard about a block in length, is our apartment.  The stairs are very old and with each step, you sway one way or another.  The old steps seem to be holding the building up.  There is a very modern light switch at the bottom of stairs that is connected to a sensor so that the light turns off after you have left the stairwell.  Light is a necessity as the stairs are like an obstacle course.

Beginning ascent up stairwell

Beginning ascent up stairwell

Our Stairwell, looking down from the top, it curves in a U shape

Our Stairwell, looking down from the top, it curves in a U shape

Bikes parked along the courtyard; for some, this is their transportation

Bikes parked along the courtyard; for some, this is their transportation

Once you enter the apartment, you are transported to a Parisian pied-a’-terre.  Every inch is packed with practical application.  We found the ironing board stored under the sitting room beds.  The dryer [an old-fashioned clothes drying rack] was stored behind the pantry [an armoire restored to hold plates and a few food items].  The iron was stored in the upper cabinet above the sink along with the hot water heater.  The washing machine was behind a small cabinet under the toaster oven.  The refrigerator was behind a cabinet door under the sink.

Our kitchen

Our kitchen

April had hired an architect to update the apartment after purchasing.  The architect had to make do with a building that could not have any holes knocked out for fear the entire building would collapse.  Therefore, to run the AC, we open the window and hang the vent over the iron railing, and run the AC with window open.

Washing machine and dryer in one machine

Washing machine and dryer in one machine

Child's chair crafter by owner's father

Child’s chair crafted by owner’s father

I fell in love with the charm of our Parisian apartment.  We had windows all along the courtyard and could open them for fresh air.  The sun would pour into the sitting room and table in the afternoon.  Armoires were used to store clothing and as a pantry.

Beautiful armoire in bedroom

Beautiful armoire in bedroom

Pantry armoire [door is open and shelves are lined with blue checkerboard paper]

Pantry armoire [door is open and shelves are lined with blue checkerboard paper]

Even though we thought we were exhausted, we ventured out that evening to the rue de la Butte Aux Cailles filled with cafes and bursting at the seams with young people drinking, smoking and probably eating as well.  Everyone seemed under 30.  We wandered until we came upon a Thai Restaurant and a delicious meal.

Eating on the street at our Thai Restaurant, one of our favorites

Eating on the street at our Thai Restaurant, one of our favorites

Of course we couldn’t wait to shop at the open air market on Auguste Blanqui where every Friday, Sunday and Tuesday the sidewalk is transformed to a market that goes for blocks of produce, flowers, cheese, clothes, rugs, soap, roasted chickens and potatoes, fresh fish, cheese, olives, spices.  It was very trying for me to pretend I could shop, not knowing a word of French.  By this time my head was so muddled with Italian and other languages, all that came out was Gratzie, muy bueno, as I fumbled for the right French word.  Rather than rudeness, we encountered only patience and smiling tolerance at our befuddlement.

Vegetables at  La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Vegetables at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Olives at  La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Olives at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Spices, nuts and dates at  La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Sausages at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

One man felt so sorry for me, he tried to show me how to use my fingers to hold up how many peaches I wanted instead of trying to say the number of kilograms.  He was very gracious.

Fish vendor at  La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Fish vendor at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Flowers at  La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Flowers at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

We arrived home to our apartment with a bounty of fresh fruit, bread, and wine, plenty to provide lunch and breakfast [as the French seem to only eat a croissant and coffee for breakfast].

One-days shopping in open-air market

One-days shopping in open-air market

We later strolled the streets of our neighborhood and found some of the original streets and single-family cottages.

Walking historical streets of our Paris neighborhood

Walking historical streets of our Paris neighborhood

Cottage homes in our Paris neighborhood

Cottage homes in our Paris neighborhood

The neighborhood overflows with cafes and at any time of day locals flock to them to enjoy their cafe, wine, and smoke.  There are also small parks and a fountain.  There is a lot of very old history in this neighborhood, mixed with modern high rise apartments.

Fountain in La Butte aux Cailles

Fountain in La Butte aux Cailles

Closeup of Fountain

Closeup of Fountain

And so it goes.  Learning the language, learning the French customs, learning the transportation system — we have challenges and many rewards.  For now, I will say Au Revoir, until another day.

Looking from bedroom window to street below

Looking from bedroom window to street below

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kirk and Marcy visit Palm Desert

Kirk and Marcy and “Jack” (their Rat Terrier) arrived for a visit to Palm Desert.  March 30, 2014.  Marcy is here to do spring riding on her bicycle.

Kirk and Marcy

Kirk and Marcy

"Jack" getting used to his new home

“Jack” getting used to new home in Palm Desert

Jack bored with the adults

Jack bored with the adults

Marcy and Red PJs

Marcy and Red PJs

Marcy joined the Sun City Cycling Club for their rides MWF mornings around the Coachella Valley.  The cyclists meet at 8 a.m. and usually return around noon, putting in 20-40 miles(the B+ riders).

Sun City cyclists getting ready for a ride

Sun City cyclists getting ready for a ride

Kirk wanted to visit Joshua Tree  Narional Monument.  After studying the maps the night before, we set out for Joshua Tree on a sunny, bright morning.  Kirk, Connie and Bill in the all-wheel drive Subaru headed down an unmarked dirt road that was the back way into Joshua Tree.  Over rocks, through ditches, around obstacles we drove.  Oops, in front of us lay an obstacle too difficult to surmount in the Subaru, not enough clearance.  Kirk said it was because of me we didn’t continue, which meant Kirk didn’t mind getting the Subaru stuck in the desert if it was he and Bill, but wasn’t about to get the Subaru stuck with his sister in the desert.  So around we turned and made our way back home, stopping at the Coachella Valley Preserve.  No dogs were allowed and we had “Jack” along so we were thwarted again.   Home to eat the lunch we had packed in the back yard, still a beautiful day.

Joshua Tree National Monument--the back road

Joshua Tree National Monument–the back road

Connie and Marcy tried the Sun City Pilates class in the Sunset View Clubhouse.  It was an hour and a half of deep stretches, rolling and keeping our balance on a ball, down-facing,dog, twisting in every imaginable position.

Pilates Class at Sun City

Pilates Class at Sun City

Kirk was willing to join Connie and Bill on the pickle ball courts to learn the fine art of Pickleball.

Pickleball Courts Sun City

Pickleball Courts Sun City

Bill and Kirk get up early to take a trip to the Salton Sea. They come home fascinated by the Sea. I learn the Sea is getting saltier and the only fish species that is surviving the salt is tilapia. I also learn the Sea is home to too many birds to count and is a stopping point on their migration.

Salton Sea Birds

Salton Sea Birds

Salton Sea

Salton Sea

While Marcy went on a solo ride on the back roads behind Sun City, Kirk and Connie headed out once again for Joshua Tree National monument.  Today we would join the Sun City Hiking Club for an “Easy” 3-mile hike, hiking boots and hiking sticks required.  This time we drove north of Sun City to the West Entrance to Joshua  Tree to the Split Rock picnic area, an hour and a half drive from Sun City, to begin our hike.

Hiking Split Rock

Hiking Split Rock

Kirk on Split Rock Trail

Kirk on Split Rock Trail

The weather was spectacular, crisp and sunny.  The hike was an easy loop in beautiful scenic boulders.

Split Rock, Joshua Tree National Monument

Split Rock, Joshua Tree National Monument

Kirk at the top of a split in rock

Kirk at the top of a split in rock

Kirk climbs a split in rock, Joshua Tree

Kirk climbs a split in rock

Kirk and I left the Hiking Club to continue to explore the Park.

Cholla Cactus, Joshua Tree

Cholla Cactus, Joshua Tree

Joshua Trees

Joshua Trees

Kirk taking in the view

Kirk taking in the view

We took a short detour to Keys View to view the Coachella Vallley at our feet, the Salton Sea to the far south and Mt. San Gregorio and Mt. San Jacinto to the west.  This was a sparkling, clear day to be able to see as far as we did without haze and smog.

Connie and Kirk at Keys View in Joshua Tree

Connie and Kirk at Keys View, Joshua Tree

For lunch we found the Natural Sisters Cafe in Joshua Tree.  Best homemade tomato soup and ginger carrot muffin to be found!  Kirk enjoyed their chopped salad, but probably enjoyed their Berry Pie and coffee more.

Totally Best Healthy Muffins

Totally Best Healthy Muffins

Apple Pie Organic Natural Delicious

Apple Pie Organic Natural Delicious

Natural Sisters Café Joshua Tree

Natural Sisters Café Joshua Tree

One evening we went out for a night on the town to Pacifica Seafood Restaurant overlooking El Paseo Blvd.  Everyone was pleased with the food and wine.  It was a leisurely two-hour dinner.

El Paseo Blvd. Palm Desert

El Paseo Blvd. Palm Desert

Looking up to the outdoor balcony of Pacifica Restaurant

Looking up to the outdoor balcony of Pacifica Restaurant

Kirk & Bill at Pacifica

Kirk & Bill at Pacifica

Jack also had fun taking walks to the Sun City Dog Parks where he met lots of new, furry friends.  Too short the visit, it was time for Kirk and Marcy to pack and head for the next stop in Phoenix.  Come back soon!

Happy dogs at the Dog Park in Sun City

Happy dogs at the Dog Park in Sun City

Down the Rio de Sierpe to the Pacific and Isla del Cano

SIERPE

Connie at the rail on Sierpe River Boat Tour

Connie at the rail on Sierpe River Boat Tour

We arose early for our one-hour drive to Sierpe, driving past plantations of date palms, green fields, small homesteads, grazing Brahma cows, plots of land growing crops, Ticos bicycling.  It was a sunny, humid morning and we arrived at an outdoor restaurant where travelers were gathering.  Our guide was busy gathering signatures and organizing our tour.  We were joined by various travelers in our boat heading down the Sierpe River through the mangrove swamps and out to the Pacific Ocean to Cano Island.

Chris and Dave on the boat to Cano Island

Chris and Dave on the boat to Cano Island

What amazes me is how a group of folks can become positively giddy at the sighting of an animal in the wild, all gathering at the rails peering for a look, hoping to catch a glimpse, straining and running from this position to that trying to see.  Our boat driver was a local Tico who spoke no English but grabbed my camera twice to take photos of the elusive animals I was unable to spot but he was able to photo.

White Faced Monkey

White Faced Monkey

Monkey in the forest

Monkey in the forest

On our particular trip, we sighted a crocodile, a sloth (I personally never could see the slow-moving sloth), monkeys, scarlet Macaws, a boa (curled up in a ball on a tree limb about which there was much discussion on how the guide was able to sight the snake as we flew past in our boat), some dolphins, and various birds.

Crocodile on banks of Sierpe River

Crocodile on banks of Sierpe River

Boa in the tree

Boa in the tree

We learned about the mangroves and our guide was able to pull a seed pod off a mangrove tree to show us how the mangroves reproduce.  A side trip down one of the mangrove canals felt mysterious as we floated along under the dense growth through the pea green opaque water, with roots hanging from the trees wondering what lay beneath the surface of the water, or deep in the mangrove forest, with only our imagination to guide us.  It was eerily quiet with occasional bird calls.

A mangrove swamp

A mangrove swamp like we toured

The result of the boat ride was to eventually arrive at a small island off the coast called Cano Island.  The Tour Guide asked who was NOT snorkeling and I asked where were the changing rooms.  Apparently I missed the announcement that if you were snorkeling to have your suit on before leaving the dock.  So two of us were dropped on the beach, which means the boat gets as close to shore as it can and you make a jump for it and run before the waves soak you and your belongings.

Passengers getting off the boats

Passengers loading on the boats are fun to watch

My companion, Marena, was a dark-skinned woman who spoke English but was distant and aloof.  Marena left me sitting on her pareo as she walked the beach.  There were lots of sand crabs crawling across  the sand, hastening my decision to sit and enjoy being on an island in the sun and surf and observing all the boats dropping and picking up passengers.  Little did I realize that sand fleas were busy finding places to bite me all over.

Connie and Bill on the beach at Cano Island

Connie and Bill on the beach at Cano Island

The rest of our group, including Bill, Chris and Dave, were dropped in the Pacific for snorkeling.

Snorkelers in the Pacific

Snorkelers Chris and Dave in the Pacific

There is something about sun and surf that relaxes and refreshes.  I lay under the palm trees watching the fronds wave patterns in the air, delicate green fans gently rising and falling.  I smelled the ocean and dug my feet in the sand.  I watched swimmers struggle with the surf and bob up and down in the ocean.  Before long the snorkelers returned to the beach.

Boat coming to load passengers

Boat coming to load passengers

Chris and Dave on Cano Island

Chris and Dave on Cano Island

Chris and I find a toilet on Cano Island [there are none]

Chris and I find a toilet on Cano Island [there are none]


Bill woke up that morning with a headache and stomach ache and looked peaked.  Since there were no restrooms on Cano Island, Bill took to the ocean to relieve himself.  Bill emerged from the surf rubbing the salt in his eyes when I saw a big wave heading his way and no way to warn him.  Before I knew it, Bill was rolling head over heels in the waves, tumbling like a piece of driftwood caught in the waves.  When he finally got his footing, he staggered up the beach towards me like a drunken sailor.  Bills snorkeling included getting separated from his group in the wide, wide ocean, using a lot of energy to reconnect by swimming a long distance, and up chucking in snorkeling gear, the “tourista” bug attacking full force.

Bill showers after getting knocked about off Cano Island

Bill showers after getting knocked about in the surf off Cano Island

Then as we attempted to get back on our boat, a wave pushed the boat sideway with a lurch, again almost knocking Bill over.  It was not the best day for Bill. Never one to give up, Bill gave it his best shot despite feeling sick.

Running to catch our boat

Running to catch our boat

Trying to board in the surf

Trying to board in the surf

Almost on board

Almost on board before the next wave pushes the boat

We lunched under the palm trees and had a great time spotting some scarlet macaws and chasing them to get a better view.  It was a carefree day.

Lunch on the lawn  along the river

Lunch on the lawn along the river

Roosters run through the grass

Roosters run through the grass

Spotting a scarlet macaw

Spotting a scarlet macaw

The boat ride home took a good part of the afternoon skimming the Sierpe River.

Loading for final trip home

Loading for final trip home

Dave enjoys the scenery on ride home

Dave enjoys the scenery on ride home

Dave enjoys conversation with fellow traveler

Dave enjoys conversation with fellow traveler

Chris drying off after her snorkeling

Chris drying off after her snorkeling

Since Dave was our only automobile driver, he had the responsibility of driving us back to our lodging in the rainforest, with Bill as his copilot.  Many Ticos were out on their bicycles this afternoon, pedaling on the sides of the narrow, two-lane road, a picturesque scene, and the plantations of palms stretched for miles.  We dined at Por Que No? on an outside deck, with fresh food and an engaging, friendly waiter and superior Piña Coladas overlooking the beach in Dominicalito.  Chris ordered the coconut Ceviche and licked the coconut clean. I think she liked it.

Por Que No?

Por Que No?

Coconut Ceviche at Por Que No?

Coconut Ceviche at Por Que No?

Dave at Por Que No?

Dave at Por Que No?

Custard Desert at Por Que No?

Custard Desert at Por Que No?

The next morning we packed and dragged the luggage up the 71 steps for our drive back to Alajuela.

Bill almost to the top of stairs at La Tierra Divina

Bill almost to the top of stairs at La Tierra Divina

Bill spent the night with a bad case of diarrhea and was so miserable he was ready for home.  Bill was back in the co-pilot seat with Dave at the wheel.  A stop in Jaco for lunch on Costa Rican Time took forever to get our food and check, at least 90 minutes or more.

Chatting with Australian girls in Jaco Cafe

Chatting with Australian girls in Jaco Cafe

Playa de Jaco is the central Pacific’s party town, with tons of bars and discos, and looked like a fun town for adventure.

How we ever found our hotel in Alajuela that afternoon is a mystery, as we took more twists and turns than one can imagine but somehow there it was, right in front of us at last, Pura Vida.  Once inside the gate and behind the walls, we were delighted with gardens and our two-bedroom casita with a big, open patio and outdoor kitchen.  We fixed beans and tortillas with our remaining fruit and fresh tomatoes.  Bed time was early.  By now everyone was feeling overwhelmed, tired, recovering from tourista and sand flea bites and revelie was at 4:30 am. Our hosts had breakfast waiting and packed, yogurt, fresh fruit, juice and granola bars.  My fresh fruit and orange juice made it through security–the girls were talking so much they didn’t pay attention.  Bills orange juice got confiscated.  Go figure. We were settled in to our Delta flightand on our way home by 8 a.m.

Goodbye cabina in the Rain Forest

Goodbye cabina in the Rain Forest

It’s going to take me awhile to sort out the best and worst moments of this vacation, but one thing is for sure, it was an adventure not to be missed.  “Pura Vida”

White faced monkey

White faced monkey

Reaching the Pacific

Reaching the Pacific via the Sierpe River

Scarlet Macaw takes flight

Scarlet Macaw takes flight

Scarlet Macaw on a treetop

Scarlet Macaw on a treetop

Ferry of sorts on Sierpa River

Ferry of sorts on Sierpa River

Views of jungle from Sierpe River

Views of jungle from Sierpe River

Cows on the highway

Cows on the highway

Last look at beautiful flowers at La Tierra Divina

Last look at beautiful flowers at La Tierra Divina

More La Tierra Divina Flowers

La Tierra Divina

Dominical and our Forest Immersion Cabinas

Dominical

Dave took the wheel as we began our drive to Dominical, heading south from La Fortuna  toward Alajuela on the outskirts of San Jose and then west towards the beaches of the Pacific Coast.  It was an all-day trip of driving, with stops for food, snacks and groceries.   We finally turned off the highway toward the rain-forested hills searching for our lodging, La Tierra Divina.  About two miles into a very rough dirt road, through creeks, over rocks, jolting our way up a mountain road, trying to follow directions that landed us by a large field at the top of the mountain, Dave pulled the car over.

Dave parks in a field while Chris and I go search for our motel

Dave parks in a field while Chris and I go search for our motel

Chris and I backtracked down the dirt road on foot to the last turnoff we suspected might be La Tierra Divina and sure enough, we had arrived.  Perched at the very top of the hill with a view of the Pacific sat two circular  cabinas and a deep blue plunge pool — a perfect setting.

Wooden walkway to La Tierra Divina with ocean view

Wooden walkway to La Tierra Divina with ocean view

Ocean View Cabina at La Tierra Divina

Ocean View Cabina at La Tierra Divina

Plunge Pool

Plunge Pool

Happy were we to finally arrive after a day of travel.  Next we discovered our cabinas were not here on the ridge with views of the Pacific, but on the rainforest floor 71 steps down.  Doing the bag drag, we hauled our luggage and groceries down the 71 steps to our “jungle immersion” cabin.

Looking down steps to forest floor

Looking down steps to forest floor

Our cabina to the left, La Tierra Divina

Our cabina to the left, La Tierra Divina

Chris with her cabina in background

Chris with her cabina in background

The cicada’s songs were deafening.  A mosquito net over the bed had me wondering what we had gotten ourselves into.  But first things first — dinner.

The shower in our cabina built from local stone

The shower in our cabina built from local stone

Heading back down the rocky mountain road, through several creeks, and into the town of Dominical (known as a funky, little surfer town),  it was so dark we had to literally guess the location of our restaurant, Tortilla Flat.

People enjoying Tortilla Flat Restaurant

People enjoying Tortilla Flat Restaurant

No door, only some rustic wood tables, a bar and a very large dog lying in the entry greeted us.   Fish tacos and Naturales hit the spot and when I flipped my tortilla plate landing the tortillas on the dirt floor, a fresh plate arrived immediately.  On our way back up the mountain, Dave stopped at a dimly lit hut that I hoped would sell tortillas.  There, in the almost near darkness, sat a young girl and after many attempts at communication, she came back with a stack of tortillas for me, with help from another lady in translating.

Connie down in the rainforest in front of cabina

Connie down in the rainforest in front of cabina

These “jungle immersion” cabinas were quite interesting.  Groping our way down the steep stairs in the darkness, I could hear many unfamiliar sounds and as we got close to the light of the cabina, got buzzed by a huge insect as I ducked my head.  The cicadas were attracted by the light.

Bugs in the forest

Bugs in the forest

Inside, we found millipedes crawling about the floor and one night, a huge spider entangled in the mosquito netting along with a small lizard darting up the wall.  At dawn the howling monkeys began their bawling and it sounded like the entire jungle was at war.  One afternoon, we were treated to a family of white-faced monkeys cavorting in the trees overhead and toucans flying back and forth.

Toucan at La Tierra Divina

Toucan at La Tierra Divina

Is that a monkey in the trees?

Is that a monkey in the trees?

Breakfast at La Tierra was served on the patio by the plunge pool– fresh banana pancakes with a homemade syrup and fresh fruit.

Connie enjoys the plunge pool

Connie enjoys the plunge pool

We liked to have wine and watch the  sun set over the Pacific, but every night as it got dark, toads as big as your fist would find their way to the plunge pool or the dog’s water bowl.

Look close to see three toads in Samson's water dish

Look close to see three toads in Samson’s water dish

Samson, a lab retriever mix, was the resident dog and his favorite game was to bring his bone tied to a rope and get in a tug of war with you.  Bill came to love playing this game with Samson.  Frenzy was their cat and she was always in a frenzy.

Bill and Samson playing tug of war

Bill and Samson playing tug of war

Samsons backside

Samsons backside

Cynthia, a local girl who could run up and down the 71 stairs with ease, cleaned the cabinas and served breakfast. Cynthia was lithe and at home in the jungle.

Cynthia

Cynthia

With our limited Spanish, we discovered that Cynthia lived “over the mountain” and rode her horse to work, an hour and a half ride each way.

Cynthia and her horse

Cynthia and her horse

Cynthia had gone to school to the sixth grade but was adept at using her mobile phone for communicating, finding the English translation for her questions.  Cynthia couldn’t quite believe us when we told her we had only a few inches of rain a year where we lived in the desert.  Cynthia’s face was filled with wonder as she tried to imagine this.

Cynthia trying to imagine our home in the desert

Cynthia trying to imagine our home in the desert

Our outing to Manuel Antonio Park involved an early-morning drive winding our way through miles and miles of resorts, shops, bars and restaurants lining the road to the entrance.   Once parked, we were set upon by locals that used our confusion to their advantage, insisting we must have a guide, or we must park here or pay there until I flatly ignored any more pleas and forged ahead to the park entrance.  Once inside the park, there were more groups with guides than you could count and we became adept at listening to their conversations and following their telescopes to the trees overhead looking for the bird or animal they had spotted.

Entrance to Manuel Antonio Park

Entrance to Manuel Antonio Park

Tourists straining to see the sloths overhead

Tourists straining to see the sloths overhead

Sloths at Manual Antonio

Sloths at Manual Antonio

Finding two male sloths in the trees overhead was a real treat as they actually moved as only sloths can [incredibly slow] in preparation for a showdown to determine dominancy for the territory and the female.  Because sloths are interminably slow, we finally lost patience and moved on but were assured a showdown was inevitable.

The beaches of Manuel Antonio are legendary, long stretches of white sand and the blue Pacific connected by trails meandering through rain forest.

Beach at Manual Antonio

Beach at Manual Antonio

View from the path to one of the beaches

View from the path to one of the beaches

Monkeys playing on the sign

Monkeys playing on the sign

After watching a group of monkeys playing, we landed at Playa Espadilla Sur Beach, ate our picnic lunch watching the surf and swam in the Pacific.

Our beautiful beach Playa Espadilla Sur

Our beautiful beach Playa Espadilla Sur

Chris after her swim

Chris after her swim

Dave after his swim

Dave after his swim

The humidity saturates you quickly with moisture so whether in the water or out, you feel damp, sticky and wet.  Even taking a shower and drying off leaves you damp as it is impossible to really dry.

Iguana on the beach

Iguana on the beach

Iguana in foreground with beach girl in background

Iguana in foreground with beach girl in background

By mid-afternoon, we were ready to head back to our “jungle immersion” cabina.  Our second night on the town was at Maracutu Restaurant with vegetarian and vegan cuisine.  I especially liked the hummus and fresh vegetables appetizer but Bill thinks his shrimp dish was responsible for his bout of “tourista.”

Chris at Maracutu Restaurant in Dominical

Chris at Maracutu Restaurant in Dominical

Across the street wass the social center of Dominical, the San Clemente Bar and Grill with a ceiling full of broken surfboards, Mexican-American food, fresh fish and lots of action.

San Clemente Bar and Grill, Dominical

San Clemente Bar and Grill, Dominical

We returned to our cabina after dark for sleeping. Bill killed millipedes and got rid of flying bugs and spiders while I made sure the mosquito net was firmly secure around our heads. We set our alarm to get up before the howling monkeys for our tour the next day of the Sierpe River, mangrove forests and Cano Island.

Looking up the stairs to climb before breakfast

Looking up the stairs to climb before breakfast

Interesting lizard displays his splendor

Interesting lizard displays his splendor

Closeup of lizard

Closeup of lizard

View of ocean from hike in Manuel Antonio Park

View of ocean from hike in Manuel Antonio Park

Looking out to the Pacific from breakfast patio

Looking out to the Pacific from breakfast patio of La Tierra Divina

Wonderful Host Family at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul in La Fortuna, Costa Rica

LA FORTUNA, COSTA RICA

We arrived at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul on the outskirts of La Fortuna by noon, four cabins overlooking a tropical field with flowers, shrubs and small trees, beyond which tumbled the small river from Arenal Volcano.  On the small porch was a table, two chairs and a hammock for afternoon siesta.

Our cabin, Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Our cabin, Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Gardens at Hotel Rancho Cerro De Azul

Gardens at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

All the cabins were built on the site by a friend of the family, even the furniture, basic, unpretentious and sturdy.

Basket of flowers in our room fashioned from towels

Basket of flowers in our room fashioned from towels

After unpacking, we found a restaurant downtown and had shrimp and seafood salads for lunch, a welcome treat, with an icy tea drink sweetened with sugar and lime.  My salad was an entire avocado with enough shrimp to satisfy anyone’s appetite, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and a dressing that complimented perfectly.  Bills seafood salad had large pieces of octopus, shrimp, tuna and clams.  Both were served with homemade rolls.  Um perfecto!

Traveling Man

Traveling Man

We dropped our dirty clothes at a laundry where they were weighed, washed, dried and folded for $6 and could be picked up as late as 10 p.m.  La Fortuna is built around a large town plaza a block in size that is a park for the people with benches, flowers, trees and grass.
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Around the plaza are small shops with crafts, souvenirs, restaurants, pharmacies, mini markets, super markets, and cafes open to the street, sodas with stools where you can grab a bite to eat, taxis waiting for tourists, and lots of people and traffic.  Streets are sometimes one way but no signs to tell you and driving was stressful for Dave as none of us could tell if we were on a one-way street.  Local drivers careen around cars parked in the middle of the street and seem to know exactly how to avoid oncoming traffic and miss pedestrians.

Our back porch at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Our back porch at Hotel  Rancho Cerro Azul

When Chris and Dave showed up that afternoon with the rental car, we were shocked to learn that not only did Kathryn and Chris come down with “tourista” vomiting all night, but Chris and Dave had a flat tire right after picking up the rental car and were robbed while getting it fixed at a gas station by very friendly, helpful Ticos.  Gone was Chrissy’s purse, INotepad, cash, her new binoculars and Bird Book and credit cards. At first we thought Dave was jiving us because it seemed like worse than a bad movie, but finally realized he was not putting us on.   Chris was most disturbed to lose her new binoculars and Bird Book.  We went on a shopping trip the next day to replace the Bird Book at twice the cost of purchasing it stateside.

Chris shopping in La Fortuna

Chris shopping in La Fortuna

After shopping, we found a soda where locals get inexpensive food with little ambience and local conversation.  Look for these sodas filled with patrons from Costa Rica and you will find good food at reasonable prices.  We ordered plates of fresh fruit, fried plantains, fish, natural fruit drinks and milkshakes and were perfectly satisfied, despite the diesel fumes from the road it fronted.

Lunch at the Soda, La Fortuna

Lunch at the Soda, La Fortuna

That evening we had reservations at Eco Termales Hot Springs.   Here we were enveloped by the beauty of the surrounding primary rainforests and the natural volcanic springs of thermal water, which have created pools with different temperatures ranging from 37° to 41° Celsius, and one fresh water waterfall, all forming part of an exotic natural spa.

Entrance to Ecotermales Hot Springs

Entrance to Ecotermales Hot Springs

We started the evening at the bar for Piña Coladas and a Strawberry Daiquiri, served in plastic drink glasses you carry with you right to the hot springs pools.

Mixing our drinks at Eco Termales

Mixing our drinks at Eco Termales

I loved jumping in the last pool which was the coolest, then under the natural waterfall which was cold, then back to the warm pool.

Dave getting ready to take a plunge

Dave getting ready to take a plunge

Down the path to the hot springs pools

Down the path to the hot springs pools

When we were cooked and mellow, we dressed for dinner right on the grounds, a fish, chicken or beef dinner with rice and beans and salad.  The trails at night are lit with spotlights and frogs croak, animals and birds I am sure are watching us from the forest.

Road into Eco Termales Hot Springs

Road into Eco Termales Hot Springs

We chose to go back to the pools after dinner, along with a bus load of Japanese students until we were thoroughly mellow and ready for bed.  This was a favorite activity of our trip to La Fortuna.

The next morning Chris and Dave were heading to Cano Negro National Wildlife Preserve for a tour on the river while Bill and I caught a taxi to Ecocentro Danaus, a biological reserve where you can see plants and animals in their natural habitat.  We spent a pleasant morning  here observing birds and learning their names, seeing sloths and iguanas in their tree top homes, a flock of herons, caimans, butterflys and plenty of plant life and native trees.

Bird watching at Eco Danaus

Bird watching at Ecocentro Danaus

Agouti, small rodent with no tail

Agouti, small rodent with no tail

Trees on the road to Eco Danaus Reserve

Trees on the road to Ecocentro Danaus Reserve

Horn-billed heron

Horn-billed heron

When our tour of Arenal never materialized, we were sitting on the entry of our lodge catching up on email when Fabian arrived and for the next two hours had us under his spell. Fabien spoke little English and we spoke little Spanish, but somehow Fabien managed to keep us enthralled.  We played card games, learned to say Spanish words, found coconuts that Fabien talked grandfather into cracking open with his machete and pouring fresh coconut liquid for us, went on a walkabout looking for the family’s horses and finally followed Fabien to the river waving sticks under the leaves to look for frogs, wading in the river and catching tadpoles in a little pool Fabien built of sand.

Bill and Fabian catching tadpoles

Bill and Fabian catching tadpoles

Intent on the hunt

Intent on the hunt

Cooling off in the river

Cooling off in the river

Fabien would point for us to follow him, or make noises like the sound of spraying to indicate to spray for mosquitoes, or hold up his hand saying “un momento” as he ran off to gather coconuts for us.  We were enchanted with Fabien.  It seemed there was nothing he could not think up to keep us busy and Fabien was only nine years old.

Fabien posing for the camera

Fabien being Fabien

That afternoon, we had only one hour when we arrived at Rio Fortuna Waterfall before closing.  After signing all the forms warning us if we had asthma or high blood pressure or heart problems we should not attempt the hike, and signing all the forms that the park was not responsible for injury or falls, we headed off.

Beginning the trail down

Beginning the trail down

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Down deep into the forest

Down deep into the forest

Down the steep trail we went into the forest where the sun had virtually disappeared, down, down, down, twisting this way and that as the trail worked its way down the side of Arenal Volcano.  I hung onto the chains that  marked the trails for balance and gingerly took one step at a time down the wood stairs and cement walkways.  Where the trail had been washed out by rain, makeshift ladders were improvised.  Fifteen minutes after beginning our descent, the waterfall was in sight.

The waterfall in sight

The waterfall in sight

Connie at the falls

Connie at the falls

Pool at the base of the falls

Pool at the base of the falls

A few brave souls were swimming in the pools directly below the falls.  We chose a lower pool where the water was calmer for a refreshing swim in tepid water.

Drying off after our swim

Drying off after our swim

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With twenty-five minutes remaining, we began our ascent.  Even though the trail out was very steep, because of the lack of elevation, it seemed much easier than it looked.  We arrived back at the entry at exactly 5 o’clock, content with our trek and swim to La Fortuna Falls.

The hike out

The hike out

Up and up and up

Up and up and up

Yeah Bo!  We made it!

Yeah Bo! We made it!

We spent the evening in La Fortuna for dinner.  Comical was I when I tried to get in the wrong car with the owners watching me from the bar.  Oops!  So sorry, I explained as I went to the next car, a look alike, and even that was not the right car.  We found a shop with a young girl doing a type of needlework on a loom and producing very lovely tapestries.  Her name was Vivien and she was delightful, such a warm smile and welcoming, with her Bible in the corner.

Vivien at her loom on the floor of her shop

Vivien at her loom on the floor of her shop

I couldn’t help myself from purchasing a set of placemats woven on her loom in bright turquoise and Orange like the beak of a Toucan.  People flock to the park plaza in the evenings and we were no exception, watching Dave eat his ice cream after his disappointing seafood salad filled with octopus which he was not crazy for.

Grandfather watches Fabien, Hotel Rancho Cerra Azul

Grandfather watches Fabien, Hotel Rancho Cerra Azul

Tatiana, hostess at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Tatiana, hostess at Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Mom, Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Mom, Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul

Too soon it was time to pack our bags for the trip to Dominical.  Our host family all came out to say goodbyes the next morning and there were hugs and photos from Mama, Papa, Tatiana and Fabien.

The whole family gathers to see us off

The whole family gathers to see us off

Tatiana gave us each a gift of a painted red frog as a remembrance.  Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul was a very special place to stay and a special family that hosted us.

The Rancho Cerro Azul Family say goodbye to us

The Rancho Cerro Azul Family say goodbye to us

Connie says goodbye to Fabien

Connie says goodbye to Fabien

Bird in bush

Bird in bush

Lovely home in Costa Rica

Lovely home in Costa Rica

Roadside cows

Roadside cows

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Santa Elena and Monteverde

We arrived in Monteverde by shuttle, a three to four-hour trip from Alajuela.  Half way we stopped at a soda for banos, drinks and snacks in a very clean restaurant and store.  For our traveling companions, we had three single ladies traveling alone, none of whom knew each other. We encountered this often, women traveling alone feeling very safe to do so in Costa Rica.

the drive to Monteverde

the drive to Monteverde

Cloud Forest of Monteverde

Cloud Forest of Monteverde

The second half of our drive was on dirt and rock roads ascending the mountains, rocking back and forth and bouncing up and down, so we were quite relieved to arrive at last at our lodging, Monteverde Rustic Lodge in Santa Elena.  However, we had only thirty minutes before our tour to Sepulveda Park.  We had just ordered some sandwiches at Bon Appetit when our van arrived for the tour.  Hurriedly packing the lunch in styrofoam boxes and asking the driver to stop by our hotel to pick up my bag with snacks and water, the other passengers were held hostage until we were finally ready, not the best way to start a tour. Our first stop was at the Butterfly Gardens, encased in a huge dome, where our guide taught us about butterflies.
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We then hiked to the rain forest where We traversed seven sky bridges high in the forest with views of trees and plants below us, most of the time in a drizzling rain.

Connie on Sky Bridge

Connie on Sky Bridge

Bill in the Rain Forest

Bill in the Rain Forest

Plant growing on a tree in rain forest

Plant growing on a tree in rain forest

Our little Lodge was up a small hill from the main street of town, and our room was up a steep slope of slate stone.  Since it seemed to be raining or drizzling during our entire stay, negotiating the road and slope was tricky.  Our first night we descended the rocky, dirt road in the dark until we got to the main street, then traversed a ditch to a sidewalk that took us to the center of Santa Elena.  The path was partially lit and sometimes difficult in the dark and drizzle.  Once in Santa Elena, there was a lively, festive vibe with locals and foreigners hustling about, stores brightly lit and restaurants open.  We chose Musashi, a Japanese Restaurant, and my insides were warmed by the most delicious concoction called “honey tea.”

My lovely pot of Honey Tea

My lovely pot of Honey Tea

Connie loves her Honey Tea

Connie loves her Honey Tea

As we were the lone diners, we wondered if the food would be good but not to worry.  The teriyaki arrived and we gobbled it up, relishing every delicious bite and by the time we finished, other diners had arrived.  Our table looked out to the main street of Santa Elena and we loved people watching.  We also were amused to thank our Japanese hosts in Spanish.

Our hosts at the Rustic Lodge were very helpful as we shakily used un poquito Espanol and they used a little English and we finally communicated.  Tours and transportation were arranged.  Breakfast in a communal dining room with handcrafted tables and chairs and fresh fruit, coffee, pancakes and juice was very enjoyable.

Monteverde Rustic Lodge

Monteverde Rustic Lodge

We were on our way to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve our first morning for a tour of bird watching and learning from a local guide about the cloud forest.  There is a constant mist from the clouds giving this area its unique ecosystem and a huge diverse variety of plants, trees and birds.

The trunk of a tree growing in the rain forest

The trunk of a tree growing in the rain forest

Hiking in the Monteverde Cloud Preserve

Hiking in the Monteverde Cloud Preserve

Waterfalls in the rain forest

Waterfalls in the rain forest

On the trail in the rain forest

On the trail in the rain forest

In this cloudy day, we also saw butterflies in their protected butterfly garden and learned about their habits and lifespan.  The Cloud Forest reminded us a lot of the redwood forests in northern California with it’s large ferns and constant dampness.

After lunch and a nap in our room, a taxi called for us to take us to the El Trapiche Coffee Tour (www.eltrapichetour.com). Jorge greeted us with a big smile and a sense of humor.  There we saw Evan and Sue, Richard and Tingle from our rainforest tour, along with four young girls from Iceland in flip flops and tights, fair skin, long blond hair, a botanist from Spain, a couple from New York and a family with two boys.  Off we went trailing Jorge on a windy, misty day, huddling in our rain jackets, tromping up the gravel path in mud to the coffee plants.

Jorge leads the way

Jorge leads the way

Rainbow at the Coffee Plantation

Rainbow at the Coffee Plantation

The coffee seeds are germinated, and the plants are eventually planted in pairs to encourage growth as they compete for light.  We tasted the coffee berry, chewing the outer part of the red berry, a sweet, chewy pulp.

Seedlings and young plants ready for planting

Seedlings and young plants ready for planting

We passed through sugar cane fields, so tall we were dwarfed by the stalks, the ripe stalks with tassels like corn. Jorge, using his machete, cut sugar cane for us to sample.

Jorge with machete cutting sugar cane

Jorge with machete cutting sugar cane

When we arrived at the coffee plants ready for picking, Jorge strapped the picking basket on one of the guys, explaining the arduous task of picking the coffee beans.

Jorge explaining how the coffee berries are picked

Jorge explaining how the coffee berries are picked

Only the ripe beans are picked, so often the coffee plants will be picked for week after week until all the beans have ripened.  The pickers earn $2 for one basket which takes about one hour to pick.  The basket gets very heavy, is hard on the back, and is extremely hard labor for very little pay.

Before mechanization, coffee beans were pulverized by hand

Before mechanization, coffee beans were pulverized by hand

The berries go through a machine that removes the outer skin and pulp, leaving only the bean.  The uniform beans go to a drying shed where they are spread in trays for drying.  When ready for processing, the beans are sorted on a machine that sends the best beans of uniform size to one tray and the rest to another.   The beans are put in a roaster and as they come from the roaster the hot beans are stirred with a large wooden spoon to prevent further cooking as the beans are very hot.  A medium roast or dark roast is determined by how long the beans are roasted.  We could touch and hold the beans along the entire process and eat a roasted bean.  Of course the smell was heavenly.

Coffee Roaster and Jorge with stir spoon

Coffee Roaster and Jorge with stir spoon

We were able to observe sugar cane processed by oxen harnessed and walking in a circle to generate power to push the canes through a crusher and squeeze the juice out.   The farm was set up to demonstrate the evolution of processing sugar cane.

Oxen turning a device that crushed the sugar canes

Oxen turning a device that crushed the sugar canes

We observed a water wheel powered by rain water provide the power to crush the sugar cane.  The juice is heated in massive stone bowls stirred by workers.  We were able to taste the brittle sugar as it hardened from a molasses-type syrup.

Water wheel used for power before mechanization

Water wheel used for power before mechanization

Stirring the liquid sugar

Stirring the liquid sugar

Some of the heated sugar was poured on a very long wooden table in sections so we could all take our turn at stirring the sugar to a consistency of taffy and oh-so-delicious candy.

Bill making candy from the hot cane syrup

Bill making candy from the hot cane syrup

Some Tico workers were making their own batch of candy with more of a taste like brown sugar.  We all got a sample and their candy was super and for me, addictive.  We also sampled pure sugar cane alcohol and I think we were all a bit tipsy after our shot of sugar cane alcohol, especially the girls from Iceland.

Workers make a molasses-type candy

Workers make a molasses-type candy

At the end of our tour, we gathered in a communal dining room with a long, wooden table and enjoyed coffee, a treat made from one of the plants grown on the plantation, and a beverage of sugar cane.

Heading home; sun is finally out

Heading home; sun is finally out

More treats in the communal dining room

More treats in the communal dining room

Oxen heading to stable

Oxen heading to stable

The El Trapiche Farm turned out to be a highlight of our trip to Monteverde. Jorge was an excellent guide with a sense of humor and very knowledgeable. The hands on tour included tasting, smelling, cooking, stirring, with lots of questions in between.

Jorge with coffee plantation behind him

Jorge with coffee plantation behind him

Paths at El Frapiche

Paths at El Trapiche

Our last night in Santa Elena was raining so we decided to eat at Bon Appetit, the restaurant closest to our Lodge. Taking cover under rain jackets, we slid down the muddy hill, arriving to a warm interior and friendly greeting by our host.

The Bar at Bon Appetit Restaurant, Santa Elena

The Bar at Bon Appetit Restaurant, Santa Elena

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The restaurant could be in any big city, but here it is at the bend of a rocky dirt road with muddy potholes.  Tables are set with brightly colored napkins and soft lighting.  Although the restaurant had only two customers, our meal could not have been nicer. My tenderloin steak, vegetables and salad was excellent.  Our host was helpful and went out of his way to get the weather report for us for the following days trip to Lake Arenal.  My husband had spaghetti octopus with a tasty red sauce. Bon Appetit was satisfying in every way — food, atmosphere, friendliness, and service and I promised the owner to post a review on Trip Review so more people would come out and enjoy.

Art at Bon Appetit Restaurant

Art at Bon Appetit Restaurant

We were truly sad to leave Monteverde Rustic Lodge. Our hosts had been so friendly. The host in the pink shirt somehow made out what I was trying to communicate in my bungled Spanish. We were treated like family and invited to put our leftovers in the refrigerator and use the microwave for cooking lunch leftovers. On our last day, I ran to get our host because the shuttle was late. He laughed and assured me we were fine and the bus would be there to pick us up in a couple hours. “A couple hours?” I moaned. He grinned ear to ear knowing he pulled a joke on this gringo tourista as he said, “What’s the hurry?” The bus arrived within a short time and we were off to La Fortuna, traveling by bus, boat, and bus.  We traveled through  beautiful country, verdant mountains with vistas of rain forest, green pastures, small farms, grazing cattle, roadside sodas, all pristine and resplendent in the sunlight.

Views through bus window on way to Lake Arenal

Views through bus window on way to Lake Arenal

Cattle on way to Lake Arenal

Cattle on way to Lake Arenal

Buildings on drive to Lake Arenal

Buildings on drive to Lake Arenal

Forest on drive to Lake Arenal

Forest on drive to Lake Arenal

Farmland on drive to Lake Arenal

Farmland on drive to Lake Arenal

Because of recent rains, the dirt and rocky roads were muddy and had many potholes but with the help of road crews, our driver maneuvered up and down the slopes and through the mud adroitly until we arrived at Lake Arenal, about a two-hour drive.  The driver hoisted our luggage through a window at the back of the bus and we lugged it down a muddy, rocky slope to the boat.

Hoisting luggage through rear window of bus

Hoisting luggage through rear window of bus

Looking down on our boat before boarding

Looking down on our boat before boarding

There were maybe twenty-five passengers on the boat, a flat ferry-type  boat with two drivers.  As we crossed, we observed Arenal Volcano directly in our path.

View to the back of our boat

View to the back of our boat

Coming up to Arenal Volcano rising from Lake Arenal

Coming up to Arenal Volcano rising from Lake Arenal

Our driver on boat

Our driver on boat

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After another luggage drag up the other side of a muddy, rocky slope and passing the luggage through the rear window of another bus, we were on the road again for the final leg of our journey to La Fortuna.

Unloading our luggage

Unloading our luggage

Doing the bag drag up the slope

Doing the bag drag up the slope

Happy were we to be dropped off after our long jeep-boat-jeep ride at the Hotel Rancho Cerro Azul in La Fortuna, where we would hook up with Chris and Dave for three nights in La Fortuna before heading to Dominical for the last leg of our journey.

Beautiful flowers line a path at El Trapiche

Beautiful flowers line a path at El Trapiche

Beautiful Flower in the rain forest

Beautiful Flower in the rain forest

Flower in the Rain Forest

Flower in the Rain Forest

Learning Costa Rica — San Jose and Alajuela

Alajuela and San Jose

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Laying by the pool and dozing in the gardens of Hotel La Rosa De America is one of my first impressions of Costa Rica.

Looking up to the gardens in Hotel

Looking up to the gardens in Hotel

We arrived after an overnight flight and were whisked to the hotel before 9 a.m. A Tico host welcomed us and told us to make ourselves at home, even though checkin wasn’t until 2 pm. By 11 a.m., our room was ready and our luggage transferred to our room. A perfectly compact, cheerful room with an overhead fan and louvred windows for ventilation provided a sound night’s sleep, with flowers in window boxes and a reading chair right outside our cozy room overlooking the azure blue tiled pool and colorful gardens.

Reading Chair and Planter outside our room

Reading Chair and Planter outside our room

Breakfast buffet was a treat in a cozy dining room with pressed table cloths, louvred windows, orange-fleshed papaya, ripe-on-the-vine watermelon, sweet, juicy pineapple, homemade banana bread, juices, rice and beans and eggs and cheese. Ramon took care of our every need with a huge smile, encouraging us to walk to Zooave and arranging a tour for us the following day to San Jose.

Our helpful staff at Hotel La Rosa De America

Our helpful staff at Hotel La Rosa De America

Path at Hotel La Rosa De America, Alajuela, Costa Rica

Path at Hotel La Rosa De America, Alajuela, Costa Rica

Entry to Lobby at Hotel De La Rosa

Entry to Lobby at Hotel De La Rosa

Road into Hotel La Rosa De America

Road into Hotel La Rosa De America

The walk to Zooave was as educational as Zooave. We lunched on an outside patio at Cherrys Restaurant while local Ticos filled the restaurant with their camaraderie and laughter, making me feel something much more interesting was taking place inside.

Outside dining at Cherry's Restaurant

Outside dining at Cherry’s Restaurant

Local Dog waiting for handouts at Cherry's

Local Dog waiting for handouts at Cherry’s

We practiced our Spanish on the waiter with some success and were joined by a local dog who mournfully eyed us all the while from his seat on the tarmat just outside the restaurants border. The one-mile walk traversed a busy road on a path that sometimes disappeared and then reappeared. It was well worn in the grass, up and down sloping driveways, through garbage, in shade and sun, and around rectangular holes in the ground. The holes were three to four-feet deep with running water, either the city’s water supply or drain water; however, with no barricades around the holes or warning of their existence, I learned to watch my step very carefully.
Entrance to ZooAve

Entrance to ZooAve


Zooave did not disappoint. Started as a bird sanctuary and rescue center, it showcased dozens of scarlet macaws, owls, raptors, toucans and a host of brilliantly colored birds, giving us a real taste up close of the birds in the wild.

Macaw

Macaw


Toucan

Toucan


In addition to birds, there were deer, tapir, puma, monkeys, crocodile, and many animals in a jungle setting.

Emu

Emu

Emu

Emu


Puma

Puma


Peacocks came to the grassy picnic area to regale us with their splendid feathers.IMG_6826

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Beautiful flowers and tropical plants were everywhere. A stand of bamboos was impressive.

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Bill looks very small next to the bamboo

Bill looks very small next to the bamboo


Looking up to the top of the bamboo

Looking up to the top of the bamboo


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One of the best meals I had was in the little dining room of our hotel at La Rosa, a grilled tilapia with rice and beans (gallo pinto), fried plantains and squash.

Great food at Hotel La Rosa

Great food at Hotel La Rosa

Selection of Wines at Hotel La Rosa de America

Selection of Wines at Hotel La Rosa de America

Our waiter was a commedian

Our waiter was a commedian

Our second day we took a local bus from our hotel to the downtown of Alajuela, a busy, congested, bustling, colonial-era city on the outskirts of San Jose. Uneven sidewalks, lots of traffic, modern stores and local shops lined the narrow streets. At one point we saw a line of young adults going half way around the block, assumed they were waiting for a movie or singing event, and then realized they were all in line with resume in hand for jobs at a government building. The buildings were opposite the central plaza park fronted on the opposite side by a large cathedral.
Cathedral in Alejuela

Cathedral in Alejuela

Men lined the benches in the park relaxing and people watching, birds chattered overhead, large trees shaded the plaza, and vendors sold food. Our hotel host had told us about an American-style coffee house which we found, Coffee Dreams, and enjoyed Costa Rican-style coffee while watching the town pass by through the windowless windows and eating empanadas.

Next up was a tour of San Jose, Costa Ricas largest city that brings in a million people a day. Waiting to be picked up by our Tour, we met Ann from Illinois who would be touring with us and instantly got along. Ann kept us laughing throughout our tour and we shared tips and small talk with the visiting guide from Puerto Rico sitting behind us with his bride on their honeymoon. Thanks to Ann, the long bus ride in gridlocked traffic was made bearable as our guide pointed out historic buildings we all peered to see.

Downtown San Jose

Downtown San Jose

Buildings in San Jose

Buildings in San Jose

Historic Residence in San Jose

Historic Residence in San Jose

We had three stops, the Gold Museum, the National Theater and a colonial-era Hotel and souvenir Shop.
Hotel Courtyard

Hotel Courtyard

Statues on steps of Hotel in San Jose

Statues on steps of Hotel in San Jose

The National Theater has much myth and facts surrounding it. We learned that wealthy Costa Ricans wanted a theater of renown and donated money for its construction. Other sources say a tax was levied on all Ticos to pay for its construction and yet other sources say Costa Ricas coffee elite contributed a certain amount for every sack of coffee sold to be used for construction of the theater. The theater is European in style with framework from Belgium, statues, murals and ceiling frescoes from Italy, baroque design overlaid with 22 K. gold and ample use of Carrara marble, stunningly beautiful and refined and a source of National pride. To me, it quite seems like a palatial building from France and odd to be in downtown Costa Rica.
National Theater

National Theater

Wall Murals at National Theater

Wall Murals at National Theater

Ceiling Murals, National Theater

Ceiling Murals, National Theater

Ceiling Murals, National Theater

Ceiling Murals, National Theater

Gold overlay around doors at National Theater

Gold overlay around doors at National Theater

View leaving the National Theater, downtown San Jose

View leaving the National Theater, downtown San Jose

As we maneuvered in traffic and exhaust fumes, our guide shared stories of Costa Ricas history, which I will attempt to summarize in very simple terms and not guaranteeing its accuracy. Costa Rica has a long-standing history of democracy. A political leader Dr. Rafael Angel Calderon Guardia, hereto referred to as “Calderon” was overwhelmingly elected president in 1840. During his four years in office the University of Costa Rica was founded (1940), the Seguro Social — a national health care program — was created (1941), the “Social Guarantees” were amended to the Constitution (1942), and the Labor Code was enacted (1943). History will perhaps best remember Dr. Calderón for having promoted the Social Guarantees which include the right to work, minimum wage, an 8-hour work day, a 48-hour work week, paid vacations, the right to unionize and to strike, social security, and the formation of the Labor Courts to litigate disputes between workers and employers.

Patisserie in downtown San Jose

Patisserie in downtown San Jose

Shops in San Jose

Shops in San Jose

As his second term commenced, Calderon began to slip in popularity. At issue were the institution of religion in the public school, the social reforms, the handling of the country’s economic problems, and widespread corruption, and accusations of being aligned with Communism which, in fact, did happen when Calderon made a pact with the Communist Party to win the 1944 election. Enter Jose Figueres, who had been exiled by Calderon because of Figueres’ strong rhetoric about Calderon being Communist. Figueres helped create the Social Democratic Party. By 1946, tax reform had been instituted and there was huge discord over having to pay higher taxes, especially by those with agricultural and industrial production and large amounts of capital. The election of 1948 pitted Calderon against Figueres’s candidate, Otilio Ulate, whose platform centered on free elections and anti communism. Ulate won the election, Calderon refused to admit defeat, and thus began the revolution or civil war led by Jose Figueres. After five weeks of fighting, Figueres was granted authority to run the government for an interim period of 18 months without a legislature before turning power over to the duly elected Otilio Ulate.
San Jose Market and shoppers

San Jose market and shoppers


During those intervening 18 months, the Government Council presided by Figueres instituted many profound changes. Among these were the nationalization of the banking system, the establishment of a 10% capital goods tax, the prohibition of the Communist Party, the abolishment of the country’s armed forces, and the creation of the Costa Rican Electric Institute (I.C.E.). As evidenced during the mere year and a half that José Figueres held power, the government would become a much more active player in the nation’s economic and social affairs. The period from 1950-80 can be typified by unprecedented growth of the public sector, the modernization and diversification of the country’s economy, and the accumulation of a tremendous national debt. On the positive side, Costa Rica now possesses better health and education systems and more infrastructure, particularly roads and electrification, than most other Latin American nations. As of 1980, Costa Rica also had the world’s second largest national debt.
A day in the plaza

Every day in the plaza

Ticos on the streets of San Jose

Ticos on the streets of San Jose

So we found all of this history fascinating. True, Costa Rica has a large middle class, and citizens are provided education, health, and pensions. The water is safe to drink. But our host at Pura Vida Hotel made a point that we need to define “literate” when we say all Ticos are “literate.” Standards of living are way below American standards; yet we believe most Ticos have the basics of food, shelter, education and health care. What we loved most about the Costa Ricans was their pure, open, welcoming nature, helpful, generous, friendly, engaging manner. So many we encountered took us under their wing and engaged us with their social, relationship-oriented manner. We also were fascinated by the lack of an Army and Costa Ricas reputation for being a very safe country for travel. We encountered numerous single women traveling alone with little fear for their safety. Petty theft is another matter and is rampant.

Entrance to the Gold Museum under the Plaza

Entrance to the Gold Museum under the Plaza


The Gold Museum is located directly beneath the main Plaza in downtown San Jose and houses the largest collection of Pre-Columbian gold in the Americas. We wandered from gold exhibit to gold exhibit, fascinated by these ancient pieces so delicately fashioned, yet odd — animal figures, human figures and wildlife.
Gold Pieces

Gold Pieces

Gold fashioned in human figures

Gold fashioned in human figures

The process for creating these gold pieces was very sophisticated. Starting with beeswax for the design, then covered with clay, which hardens, the wax is melted and runs out a duct, and the heated metal is poured in, hardens, and the clay mold broken. Our tour ended with a stop at a gold retailer to buy gold pieces, or jade. Then it was back on the bus for more gridlock getting out of San Jose while we chatted with Ann and the honeymooning couple.

The next morning we were packed and ready for our shuttle, taking us by car to Monteverde Cloud Forest and saying goodbyes to Ramon and Troy and all the others that had been such great hosts at Hotel La rosa de America. Our first two days in Costa Rica had been pretty eventful; little did we know so much more was to come.

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On to Sedona, 25th Anniversary Party, 93rd Birthday Party, Phoenix and Home

On the road to Sedona

On the road to Sedona

We arrived in Sedona in plenty of time to set up camp.  The temperature was pleasantly warm.  We were so happy to be warm again.  We loved the rock formations of Sedona and our RV Park on Oak Creek in the dappled shade of very large trees.

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RV Park Sedona

RV Park Sedona

Kirk, Marcy, Kathryn, Mom and Chris visited us Saturday morning in our trailer and we heard “the rest of the story” about the hike into the Grand Canyon.  The weather in Sedona could not have been more beautiful with sunshine filtering through the trees and clear, blue skies.

That evening we all gathered in our finest party clothes and ate and drank and talked and drank and ate, got acquainted and reacquainted, and enjoyed a perfectly lovely Fall evening in Sedona celebrating Kirk and Marcy’s 25 years of marriage.

Mom arriving at Anniversary Party

Mom arriving at Anniversary Party

Marcy makes a toast

Marcy makes a toast

We feasted at the Cucina Rustica.  For those of you that like to hear about food, the evening began with Affinato and Bruschetta.  Our next course was Insalata Mista Della Casa.  For an entree, we had our choice of Salmon Arancione, Filetto Di Manzo or Pollo Picatta.  And we finished with Dolci, Tiramisu and Mini Cannoli.  All washed down with very good wine.  Need I say, the food and wine was delicioso.

La Cocina

Cocina Rustica private room

Grandma and Alice

Grandma and Alice

Marcy and Daria

Marcy and Daria

Charlie and Daria

Charlie and Daria

Guests traveled from many cities in California.  Marcy’s sister, Marcia, traveled the farthest flying from back east.  Charlie and Daria came from Berkeley, California; Rick and Kathy from Davis, Chris and Mom from Phoenix.  Everyone managed to book hotels in Sedona and cancel their reservations in the Grand Canyon.

Mom with daughter Chris and granddaughter Kathryn

Mom with daughter Chris and granddaughter Kathryn

Dylan came from Phoenix via Flagstaff

Dylan came from Phoenix via Flagstaff

Connie and Kathy get acquainted

Connie and Kathy get acquainted

Sunday morning we roused the revelers to set out a brunch at the Red Agave Resort and trumped the horns when Bobby “Mom” arrived to celebrate her 93rd birthday.  Looking as fresh as a newly-picked flower, Mom arrived with a huge smile.

Mom arrives to Birthday Brunch

Mom arrives to Birthday Brunch

We sat outside in morning sun at picnic tables with the canyons as a backdrop.  Fresh bagels, to-die-for muffins, fresh fruit and of course lots and lots of coffee kept us energized for another couple of hours.  The sun shone bright and the skies blazed blue as we again rekindled friendships, sang “Happy Birthday” and enjoyed another beautiful Fall day in Sedona.

Mom reading her birthday cards

Mom reading her birthday cards

93 Years Young

93 Years Young

But even this hardy group had its limits, and eventually began to run out of steam when the last cup of coffee was poured from the pot.  Of course, no party of the Veirs/Champion clan is complete without photos; and we managed to pull off getting everyone rounded up for shot after shot with this camera and that camera and were finally able to call an end to the festivities–satiated, well photographed and soundly content with not one, but two family milestones.

 

Mom and Chris, Connie and Kirk -- all grown up

Mom and Chris, Connie and Kirk — all grown up

 

David, Kathryn, Chris, Bill, Connie, Kirk, Alice, Marcy Dylan

David, Kathryn, Chris, Bill, Connie, Kirk, Alice, Marcy Dylan

 

Good Friends David and Robin, Charlie, Marcy and Kirk, and Daria

Good Friends David and Robin, Charlie, Marcy and Kirk, and Daria

Yes, it was on again, off again, on again and unpredictable but somehow it was also quite a lot of fun to not exactly know what the next move would be; perhaps like playing chess and the challenge of outsmarting your opponent, which felt perhaps a bit smug in the accomplishment.

Kirk hikes with Ryan and Alice in Sedona

Kirk hikes with Ryan and Alice in Sedona

Chris, Kathryn and Mom left to drive home to Phoenix.  Charlie, Daria, David and Robin left for their next stop.  Alice and Ryan drove back to Flagstaff.  Kirk and Marcy probably collapsed in the Hot Tub and Bill and Connie whiled away the sunshiny afternoon wandering art galleries and shops at Tlaquepague and Hwy. 179.   But there was more.  The chef that cooked the amazing anniversary dinner had another restaurant, the Pisa Lisa, that Kirk, Marcy, Connie and Bill visited to experience another culinary delight.  Truly the most delicate, fresh, and tasty salads of our entire trip, washed down with wine and extraordinary pizza capped the trip and this time we really did say “Goodbye” and “until next time.”  By the light of the moon, we headed home to our cozy trailer.  We had been traveling for 38 days and need we say?  We were ready for “home.”

But wait!  There is more.  Down to Phoenix, parked at Chris and Dave’s, we had the pleasure of visiting Tim and Mayuko and Ashlyn AND Cindy, Joel, Joshua, Kaitlyn and new baby Nathan.  I was able to cuddle and rock Nathan for a good length of time–what a warm fuzzy.

Ashlyn playing coy

Ashlyn playing coy

Ashlyn showed me her garden and we cuddled and read stories. Chris and Dave kept us fed and entertained.  I took Mom to the Pioneer Museum of Tempe and Bill and I took Mom to the Mesa Contemporary Art Museum.  Either way, we tried our best to keep up with Mom but it was not easy.

Chrissy meets us for lunch after the Museum

Chrissy meets us for lunch after the Museum

Lunch in downtown Mesa

Lunch in downtown Mesa

Now I am typing this on the road between Phoenix and Palm Desert and we will be home in about thirty minutes.  I quite don’t know what to do with myself to have solid ground and a real floor under me, to have a shower big enough to hold myself and seven more people, a kitchen about six times the size of our trailer kitchen, ice on demand, 650 television stations, movies on demand, clean clothes hanging in a closet, Peets coffee — wow, it feels good to be home!  But we wouldn’t have  missed our Southwest trip for anything.

Grand Canyon is GRAND; Federal Shutdown a SLAM-DUNK

East Entrance to Grand Canyon National Park

East Entrance to Grand Canyon National Park

THE State of Utah came up with the money to open the National Parks in Utah just after we left Moab. It happened on the day we were camping in Bluff.  Kirk and Marcy had set a goal to make a decision about their anniversary party one week from their party date  so people could adjust their plans, considering the Grand Canyon was still CLOSED!  When that time arrived, we all got the news by email.  A Restaurant had been selected in Sedona and the entire party was moved to Sedona.  Within hours of receiving Marcy’s email, Bill and I were notified by the National Parks Reservation Service that Arizona was funding the opening of the Grand canyon for ONE week.  We communicated with Kirk and Marcy that if they still wanted to do the hike to the Grand Canyon, we would go to the North Rim as planned to see them off.  I think it might have been at this point that Marcy was at her wits end.  Of course, all of us were yelling at the news broadcasts, venting our frustration with each new pronouncement from our Government.

Perched Condor

Perched Condor

Elk with massive horns

Elk with massive horns

Kirk told me the plans had been made to go to Sedona and they were sticking with them.  Fine!  I got on the computer before leaving Monument Valley, cancelled our remaining reservations for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and reserved instead for the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and reserved three nights at Sedona RV Park.  At the Bashas grocery store in Kayenta on our way to the South Rim, my head buried in the produce stand, my cell phone rang.  Kirk:  “Hello Connie!  You won’t believe what we’ve been through.  We ARE going to hike the Grand Canyon after all.  Can you drive our car to the South Rim as originally planned”. Long pause.  Hmmm.  This was going to be a challenge.

Grand Canyon at the South Rim

Grand Canyon at the South Rim

We DID manage to figure out a plan to pick up Kirk and Marcy’s car from the North Rim.  From their home in New Mexico, Kirk and Marcy drove to Flagstaff joining Dylan and Alice.  Wednesday morning Kirk and Marcy pulled into our camp on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with Kathryn Hayes and Dylan in Dylan’s car.  The cars were repacked, Dylan’s car was parked at the South Rim, and Kirk, Marcy, Dylan and Kathryn drove off in the Subaru for the North Rim.

Kathryn in a yoga pose

Kathryn in a yoga pose

Kirk getting ready for his Grand Canyon Hike

Kirk and Dylan getting ready for his Grand Canyon Hike

Prep for hike down Grand Canyon

Prep for hike down Grand Canyon

Temperatures were dropping to 18 degrees that night on the North Rim and a full moon would rise over the canyon.  Kirk was excited and eager to get going after the on again, off again, on again  drama planning for their hike.  I worried they would freeze that night sleeping in their tent on the North Rim.  As it turned out, everyone slept warm and the hike commenced Thursday morning, hiking down 14 miles to Phantom Ranch where they camped Thursday night.  Temperatures at the bottom of the canyon were warmer and enabled the hikers to sleep under the light of the moon. Dylan and Joel (a buddy of Marcy’s from college days) even found there were parties and beer to be had at the bottom of the canyon.

Down into the Canyon sunshine and blue skies but cold

Down into the Canyon sunshine and blue skies but cold

Back at Connie and Bills camp, Bill rose early Thursday morning, hopped on his bicycle and rode to Bright Angel Lodge to catch a shuttle to the North Rim.  The bus left at 8 a.m. and arrived at the North Rim at 12:15 pm. Kirk and Marcy had the Subaru parked where the shuttle dropped its passengers so within minutes, Bill was driving off in the Subaru, back to the South Rim.  By 4:30 pm that afternoon, Bill arrived back at the South Rim.  Connie used the day to catch up on computer tasks at the South Rim Library.

Elk on the trail

Elk on the trail

Our original plan was to hike down the Bright Angel Trail Friday morning to meet the hikers as they came up.  We bundled up in our trailer Thursday night, snuggled to keep warm as temperatures dropped to 23 degrees.  Brrrr — these Sun City seniors not used to cold expended all our energy just staying warm.  We nixed our hike, packed up the trailer and headed to Sedona, leaving Kirk and Marcy’s Subaru parked by Dylans car.  A group of Kirks friends met Kirk and Marcy as they came out of the canyon, looking none the worse for wear, and took them off to have a beer.  They were sore, blistered, exhilarated — but happy and im sure proud they made it down to the canyon floor and back out.  It was a highlight of the trip and launched the celebration of their anniversary.

Rick & Kathy, David & Robin, Charlie & Daria bundled waiting for hikers

Rick & Kathy, David & Robin, Charlie & Daria bundled waiting for hikers

Kirk in the lead coming out of the canyon

Kirk in the lead coming out of the canyon

Long Shot of Hikers

Long Shot of Hikers

The Happy Hikers

The Happy Hikers from left Joel, Marcy, Kirk, Kathryn and Dylan

Our stay in the Grand Canyon was only marred by the vacillation of the Federal Government and the cold temperatures.  On one of the warmer days, we rode our bikes all day exploring the South Kaibab Trailhead, the Visitors Center Complex, the train depot, Bright Angel Lodge and Bright Angel Trailhead.

Bikers Bill and Connie

Bikers Bill and Connie

Grand Canyon trail

Grand Canyon trail

Mules take a break on Bright Angel Trail

Mules take a break on Bright Angel Trail

Mules head out of canyon, Bright Angel Trail

Mules head out of canyon, Bright Angel Trail

A thrill was observing two condors from the Studio below Bright Angel Lodge.  These huge birds were riding the air right above our heads effortlessly, covering miles in minutes, and just seemed to float in air from one side of the canyon to the other.  We were absorbed for an hour watching the condors.

Condor In Flight

Condor In Flight

Condor at Bright Angel Lodge

Condor at Bright Angel Lodge

Bright Angel Trail

Bright Angel Trail

The menu sounded so good at the Bright Angel Restaurant (prime rib) we stayed for dinner.  Fortunately there was a full moon to light our way so we could ride our bikes the several miles to our trailer, but in the dark we DID have a hard time finding Trailer Village.  Nevertheless, we bundled up, turned the heater up, and hoped the hikers weren’t freezing to death.

On another warm day, we rode our bikes to the Hermits Rest Transfer Station.  From there, we took the shuttle to Hopi Point.  The parks have everything taken care of to transport bikers and bikes.  On the front of each shuttle bus is a contraption that folds down and two bikes can be stored easily.  At Hopi Point, we disembarked and rode mostly downhill about 5 1/2 miles to Hermits Rest.

Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon

Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon

Hernit Lodge Stone Fireplace

Hernit Lodge Stone Fireplace

The sun was out and the canyon was lit in all its glory as we rode along the rim.  We could not have asked for a more beautiful ride. To our surprise, at the end of the trail at Hermits Rest, what did we find but a gift shop and coffee shop.  Here I thought we were way out away from the congestion near the Lodges and much less populated area so was quite surprised at all the amenities.

We were disappointed we didn’t do more hiking, but Friday morning was too cold for us so we headed for warmer places — Sedona — let’s go celebrate!!

Mules on Bright Angel Trail

Mules on Bright Angel Trail

Monument Valley, Utah: John Wayne Country

John Wayne country here we come.  I had no idea John Wayne would be such a hero in this canyon country section of Utah but everywhere you go in Monument Valley, you run into John Wayne.  Whether it is a movie poster, a life-size cut out, a DVD, or photos, you are going to become intimately acquainted with John Wayne here.  Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park (30,000 acres) at 5,500 feet elevation. The Navajo Indians that still live in the park might live in hogans, the traditional domed, hexagon-shaped structure with no running water or electricity.  A few of them prepare and spin wool the old-fashioned way, using dyes from native plants.

Interesting Rock forms

Interesting Rock forms

Note people to the right of natural bridge

Note people to the right of natural bridge

We made the fortunate decision to stay in Gouldings Campground.  Harry Goulding and his wife, “Mike”, came to Monument Valley in 1924 and established a Trading Post.  The Gouldings apparently were renowned for their integrity, honesty, and genuine concern for Indian welfare.  Today Gouldings has a Gift Shop, museum, dining room, theater, market, gas station, Lodge, campground and Gouldings Tours.  With that many services run by one company, you might imagine a lackluster performance.  But we found the opposite to be true.  The campground was well run with a laundromat and a computer and a shower room and indoor pool.  The museum was filled with movie memorabilia and replicas of the Gouldings original living quarters, a television that ran John Wayne movies, and lots of history.  The meal in the dining room was excellent, fast service, beautiful views, and Navajo Fry Bread.  The Navajo personality was enthralling to me, so laid back, gentle, and “take-life-as-it-comes,” family/community-oriented.  I could never imagine being that unwound.

Gouldings Campground from our trailer

Gouldings Campground from our trailer

Grand View of Monument Valley

Grand View of Monument Valley

We took a Gouldings Tour through Monument Valley and for 3 1/2 hours our Navajo guide kept me glued to the seat listening to her stories about living as a Navajo.  We saw petroglyphs, natural arches, Anasazi ruins, and movie locations in addition to the famous monuments.

Petroglyph of ancient people

Petroglyph of ancient people

Site of ancient puebloans

Site of ancient puebloans

 

A natural bridge in Monument Valley

A natural bridge in Monument Valley

The tour was an open-air truck like transport and was freezing cold when we started at 8:30 a.m.  The Navajos obviously don’t believe in road improvement so there is much jarring and jolting as the truck drives down gullies and deeply rutted dirt roads.  We all scrambled out to stretch our legs when the truck stopped, a welcome relief from the bouncing ride.  What can be more beautiful than seeing horses run wild across the Mesa, sun lighting the canyon, blue sky peeking through round sandstone rock openings, rolling mounds of tan sand to climb, and the freshness of an autumn morning?

Wild horses in Monument Valley

Wild horses in Monument Valley

Navajo Kivas, Monument Valley

Navajo Kivas, Monument Valley

Carol, our Navajo guide, told us about learning to herd sheep as a young girl and being left on the top of a Mesa with the sheep for a week at a time.  She learned how to catch and butcher small animals for food.  She was 10 hears old.  I loved her gentle, calm manner of speaking, so unpretentious and down-to-earth.

Carol, Our Navajo Guide

Carol, Our Navajo Guide

The hogans were amazing structures with logs laid in a hexagon-shaped manner on support logs.  There are only a few Navajos that know how to build the hogan and they are consulted for the building.  Once built, the outside is covered with sandstone mud until it is smooth.  Inside the hogan, it felt quite comfortable and cozy with more space that imagined.

Navajo Kiva

Navajo Kiva

Navajo Cradleboard to the right

Navajo Cradleboard to the right

We watched a Navajo lady make yarn from sheep wool, card the wool, spin the yarn, and weave the rug.  The babies were strapped in a cradleboard for the first few years of life.  To give birth, the mothers hands were tied to the wood logs of the hogan roof and straps around her belly were pulled down by the ladies assisting the birth.  Of course my mouth was hanging open in disbelief all the while thinking, trying to imagine what a Navajo birth was like.  And then to think of the baby being strapped on a board for the first couple years of life.

Local Dog Monument Valley

Local Dog Monument Valley

Our driver to and from the Earth Spirit Theater was another gentle, calm, pleasant Navajo youth.  It seemed there was nothing he would not do to make us happy.  He was not pretentious, he was easy going and pulled you in with his warmth and genuinely helpful nature.  We took the shuttle from our campground to the Earth Spirit Theater for the 8 o’clock John Wayne movie which happened to be “Stagecoach” the Saturday night we were there.  How thrilling to see this movie in the setting where it was filmed.  Stagecoach was the first film made in Monument Valley in 1938 and propelled John Wayne as a star.

Natual bridge, Monument Valley

Natual bridge, Monument Valley

You've seen this landscape in a John Wayne movie

You’ve seen this landscape in a John Wayne movie

Next to the Theater was the room used as a set for the movie, “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon.” Our driver shuttled us back to camp after the movie, keeping us smiling with his friendly conversation.  Sunday night he picked us up so we could view the Earth Spirit film and a documentary about Monument Valley.  He ran the documentary once for us and again at the regular time.  He also ran the first fifteen minutes of “The Searchers” for us between scheduled movies.  Then he shuttled us back to camp; but first when I expressed how grand it would be to see the whole movie “The Searchers” while in Monument Valley, he drove us to the Lodge where he said we could rent the DVD, which we did.  There was a half moon shining on the canyon wall as we arrived back at camp and his helpfulness left such a warm feeling, it all felt magical.  We popped popcorn and watched The Searchers before retiring by the light of the moon our last night in Monument Valley.

Admiring the massive rock

Admiring the massive rock

"Thumb", Monument Valley

“Thumb”, Monument Valley