Monthly Archives: November 2013

Grand Canyon is GRAND; Federal Shutdown a SLAM-DUNK

East Entrance to Grand Canyon National Park

East Entrance to Grand Canyon National Park

THE State of Utah came up with the money to open the National Parks in Utah just after we left Moab. It happened on the day we were camping in Bluff.  Kirk and Marcy had set a goal to make a decision about their anniversary party one week from their party date  so people could adjust their plans, considering the Grand Canyon was still CLOSED!  When that time arrived, we all got the news by email.  A Restaurant had been selected in Sedona and the entire party was moved to Sedona.  Within hours of receiving Marcy’s email, Bill and I were notified by the National Parks Reservation Service that Arizona was funding the opening of the Grand canyon for ONE week.  We communicated with Kirk and Marcy that if they still wanted to do the hike to the Grand Canyon, we would go to the North Rim as planned to see them off.  I think it might have been at this point that Marcy was at her wits end.  Of course, all of us were yelling at the news broadcasts, venting our frustration with each new pronouncement from our Government.

Perched Condor

Perched Condor

Elk with massive horns

Elk with massive horns

Kirk told me the plans had been made to go to Sedona and they were sticking with them.  Fine!  I got on the computer before leaving Monument Valley, cancelled our remaining reservations for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and reserved instead for the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and reserved three nights at Sedona RV Park.  At the Bashas grocery store in Kayenta on our way to the South Rim, my head buried in the produce stand, my cell phone rang.  Kirk:  “Hello Connie!  You won’t believe what we’ve been through.  We ARE going to hike the Grand Canyon after all.  Can you drive our car to the South Rim as originally planned”. Long pause.  Hmmm.  This was going to be a challenge.

Grand Canyon at the South Rim

Grand Canyon at the South Rim

We DID manage to figure out a plan to pick up Kirk and Marcy’s car from the North Rim.  From their home in New Mexico, Kirk and Marcy drove to Flagstaff joining Dylan and Alice.  Wednesday morning Kirk and Marcy pulled into our camp on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with Kathryn Hayes and Dylan in Dylan’s car.  The cars were repacked, Dylan’s car was parked at the South Rim, and Kirk, Marcy, Dylan and Kathryn drove off in the Subaru for the North Rim.

Kathryn in a yoga pose

Kathryn in a yoga pose

Kirk getting ready for his Grand Canyon Hike

Kirk and Dylan getting ready for his Grand Canyon Hike

Prep for hike down Grand Canyon

Prep for hike down Grand Canyon

Temperatures were dropping to 18 degrees that night on the North Rim and a full moon would rise over the canyon.  Kirk was excited and eager to get going after the on again, off again, on again  drama planning for their hike.  I worried they would freeze that night sleeping in their tent on the North Rim.  As it turned out, everyone slept warm and the hike commenced Thursday morning, hiking down 14 miles to Phantom Ranch where they camped Thursday night.  Temperatures at the bottom of the canyon were warmer and enabled the hikers to sleep under the light of the moon. Dylan and Joel (a buddy of Marcy’s from college days) even found there were parties and beer to be had at the bottom of the canyon.

Down into the Canyon sunshine and blue skies but cold

Down into the Canyon sunshine and blue skies but cold

Back at Connie and Bills camp, Bill rose early Thursday morning, hopped on his bicycle and rode to Bright Angel Lodge to catch a shuttle to the North Rim.  The bus left at 8 a.m. and arrived at the North Rim at 12:15 pm. Kirk and Marcy had the Subaru parked where the shuttle dropped its passengers so within minutes, Bill was driving off in the Subaru, back to the South Rim.  By 4:30 pm that afternoon, Bill arrived back at the South Rim.  Connie used the day to catch up on computer tasks at the South Rim Library.

Elk on the trail

Elk on the trail

Our original plan was to hike down the Bright Angel Trail Friday morning to meet the hikers as they came up.  We bundled up in our trailer Thursday night, snuggled to keep warm as temperatures dropped to 23 degrees.  Brrrr — these Sun City seniors not used to cold expended all our energy just staying warm.  We nixed our hike, packed up the trailer and headed to Sedona, leaving Kirk and Marcy’s Subaru parked by Dylans car.  A group of Kirks friends met Kirk and Marcy as they came out of the canyon, looking none the worse for wear, and took them off to have a beer.  They were sore, blistered, exhilarated — but happy and im sure proud they made it down to the canyon floor and back out.  It was a highlight of the trip and launched the celebration of their anniversary.

Rick & Kathy, David & Robin, Charlie & Daria bundled waiting for hikers

Rick & Kathy, David & Robin, Charlie & Daria bundled waiting for hikers

Kirk in the lead coming out of the canyon

Kirk in the lead coming out of the canyon

Long Shot of Hikers

Long Shot of Hikers

The Happy Hikers

The Happy Hikers from left Joel, Marcy, Kirk, Kathryn and Dylan

Our stay in the Grand Canyon was only marred by the vacillation of the Federal Government and the cold temperatures.  On one of the warmer days, we rode our bikes all day exploring the South Kaibab Trailhead, the Visitors Center Complex, the train depot, Bright Angel Lodge and Bright Angel Trailhead.

Bikers Bill and Connie

Bikers Bill and Connie

Grand Canyon trail

Grand Canyon trail

Mules take a break on Bright Angel Trail

Mules take a break on Bright Angel Trail

Mules head out of canyon, Bright Angel Trail

Mules head out of canyon, Bright Angel Trail

A thrill was observing two condors from the Studio below Bright Angel Lodge.  These huge birds were riding the air right above our heads effortlessly, covering miles in minutes, and just seemed to float in air from one side of the canyon to the other.  We were absorbed for an hour watching the condors.

Condor In Flight

Condor In Flight

Condor at Bright Angel Lodge

Condor at Bright Angel Lodge

Bright Angel Trail

Bright Angel Trail

The menu sounded so good at the Bright Angel Restaurant (prime rib) we stayed for dinner.  Fortunately there was a full moon to light our way so we could ride our bikes the several miles to our trailer, but in the dark we DID have a hard time finding Trailer Village.  Nevertheless, we bundled up, turned the heater up, and hoped the hikers weren’t freezing to death.

On another warm day, we rode our bikes to the Hermits Rest Transfer Station.  From there, we took the shuttle to Hopi Point.  The parks have everything taken care of to transport bikers and bikes.  On the front of each shuttle bus is a contraption that folds down and two bikes can be stored easily.  At Hopi Point, we disembarked and rode mostly downhill about 5 1/2 miles to Hermits Rest.

Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon

Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon

Hernit Lodge Stone Fireplace

Hernit Lodge Stone Fireplace

The sun was out and the canyon was lit in all its glory as we rode along the rim.  We could not have asked for a more beautiful ride. To our surprise, at the end of the trail at Hermits Rest, what did we find but a gift shop and coffee shop.  Here I thought we were way out away from the congestion near the Lodges and much less populated area so was quite surprised at all the amenities.

We were disappointed we didn’t do more hiking, but Friday morning was too cold for us so we headed for warmer places — Sedona — let’s go celebrate!!

Mules on Bright Angel Trail

Mules on Bright Angel Trail

Monument Valley, Utah: John Wayne Country

John Wayne country here we come.  I had no idea John Wayne would be such a hero in this canyon country section of Utah but everywhere you go in Monument Valley, you run into John Wayne.  Whether it is a movie poster, a life-size cut out, a DVD, or photos, you are going to become intimately acquainted with John Wayne here.  Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park (30,000 acres) at 5,500 feet elevation. The Navajo Indians that still live in the park might live in hogans, the traditional domed, hexagon-shaped structure with no running water or electricity.  A few of them prepare and spin wool the old-fashioned way, using dyes from native plants.

Interesting Rock forms

Interesting Rock forms

Note people to the right of natural bridge

Note people to the right of natural bridge

We made the fortunate decision to stay in Gouldings Campground.  Harry Goulding and his wife, “Mike”, came to Monument Valley in 1924 and established a Trading Post.  The Gouldings apparently were renowned for their integrity, honesty, and genuine concern for Indian welfare.  Today Gouldings has a Gift Shop, museum, dining room, theater, market, gas station, Lodge, campground and Gouldings Tours.  With that many services run by one company, you might imagine a lackluster performance.  But we found the opposite to be true.  The campground was well run with a laundromat and a computer and a shower room and indoor pool.  The museum was filled with movie memorabilia and replicas of the Gouldings original living quarters, a television that ran John Wayne movies, and lots of history.  The meal in the dining room was excellent, fast service, beautiful views, and Navajo Fry Bread.  The Navajo personality was enthralling to me, so laid back, gentle, and “take-life-as-it-comes,” family/community-oriented.  I could never imagine being that unwound.

Gouldings Campground from our trailer

Gouldings Campground from our trailer

Grand View of Monument Valley

Grand View of Monument Valley

We took a Gouldings Tour through Monument Valley and for 3 1/2 hours our Navajo guide kept me glued to the seat listening to her stories about living as a Navajo.  We saw petroglyphs, natural arches, Anasazi ruins, and movie locations in addition to the famous monuments.

Petroglyph of ancient people

Petroglyph of ancient people

Site of ancient puebloans

Site of ancient puebloans

 

A natural bridge in Monument Valley

A natural bridge in Monument Valley

The tour was an open-air truck like transport and was freezing cold when we started at 8:30 a.m.  The Navajos obviously don’t believe in road improvement so there is much jarring and jolting as the truck drives down gullies and deeply rutted dirt roads.  We all scrambled out to stretch our legs when the truck stopped, a welcome relief from the bouncing ride.  What can be more beautiful than seeing horses run wild across the Mesa, sun lighting the canyon, blue sky peeking through round sandstone rock openings, rolling mounds of tan sand to climb, and the freshness of an autumn morning?

Wild horses in Monument Valley

Wild horses in Monument Valley

Navajo Kivas, Monument Valley

Navajo Kivas, Monument Valley

Carol, our Navajo guide, told us about learning to herd sheep as a young girl and being left on the top of a Mesa with the sheep for a week at a time.  She learned how to catch and butcher small animals for food.  She was 10 hears old.  I loved her gentle, calm manner of speaking, so unpretentious and down-to-earth.

Carol, Our Navajo Guide

Carol, Our Navajo Guide

The hogans were amazing structures with logs laid in a hexagon-shaped manner on support logs.  There are only a few Navajos that know how to build the hogan and they are consulted for the building.  Once built, the outside is covered with sandstone mud until it is smooth.  Inside the hogan, it felt quite comfortable and cozy with more space that imagined.

Navajo Kiva

Navajo Kiva

Navajo Cradleboard to the right

Navajo Cradleboard to the right

We watched a Navajo lady make yarn from sheep wool, card the wool, spin the yarn, and weave the rug.  The babies were strapped in a cradleboard for the first few years of life.  To give birth, the mothers hands were tied to the wood logs of the hogan roof and straps around her belly were pulled down by the ladies assisting the birth.  Of course my mouth was hanging open in disbelief all the while thinking, trying to imagine what a Navajo birth was like.  And then to think of the baby being strapped on a board for the first couple years of life.

Local Dog Monument Valley

Local Dog Monument Valley

Our driver to and from the Earth Spirit Theater was another gentle, calm, pleasant Navajo youth.  It seemed there was nothing he would not do to make us happy.  He was not pretentious, he was easy going and pulled you in with his warmth and genuinely helpful nature.  We took the shuttle from our campground to the Earth Spirit Theater for the 8 o’clock John Wayne movie which happened to be “Stagecoach” the Saturday night we were there.  How thrilling to see this movie in the setting where it was filmed.  Stagecoach was the first film made in Monument Valley in 1938 and propelled John Wayne as a star.

Natual bridge, Monument Valley

Natual bridge, Monument Valley

You've seen this landscape in a John Wayne movie

You’ve seen this landscape in a John Wayne movie

Next to the Theater was the room used as a set for the movie, “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon.” Our driver shuttled us back to camp after the movie, keeping us smiling with his friendly conversation.  Sunday night he picked us up so we could view the Earth Spirit film and a documentary about Monument Valley.  He ran the documentary once for us and again at the regular time.  He also ran the first fifteen minutes of “The Searchers” for us between scheduled movies.  Then he shuttled us back to camp; but first when I expressed how grand it would be to see the whole movie “The Searchers” while in Monument Valley, he drove us to the Lodge where he said we could rent the DVD, which we did.  There was a half moon shining on the canyon wall as we arrived back at camp and his helpfulness left such a warm feeling, it all felt magical.  We popped popcorn and watched The Searchers before retiring by the light of the moon our last night in Monument Valley.

Admiring the massive rock

Admiring the massive rock

"Thumb", Monument Valley

“Thumb”, Monument Valley

Serendipity, Goblin Valley State Park, Deadhorse State Park, Natural Bridges National Park and Blanding

PhilCarla

Phil and Karla. At the Bryce Cannonville KOA, a rig pulled in to the spot next to ours on a stormy, cloudy day. I said hello to the new RV neighbors as I ran to the laundry room to do wash. Before long Phil (as we later learned) called out to our trailer inviting Bill to join the men in solving a mechanical problem. Turns out his hitch was attached to the ball and was stuck so that Phil was unable to unhook. It took three men about two hours to solve the problem and by that time they bonded as fellow members of the military.
Bill ponders Phil's trailer problem Bill ponders Phil’s trailer problemThree heads are better than one Three heads are better than one

The men disassembled the hitch, cut the electrical, and reassembled. Later Phil invited us to join he and his wife for dinner in town. A great idea, I thought. Phil was gregarious and Karla was quieter and supportive. We chatted through dinner like old friends. Afterwards we got a tour of Phil and Karla’s trailer. We finally retired for the night, only to have Phil knocking on the door to loan us a DVD, Trimuph of the Nerds because we mentioned we were listening to the Steve Jobs story. It was hard to say goodbye the next day. I really enjoyed our time with Phil and Carla.

Turns out we didn’t have to say goodbye. Our next stop was Kodachrome Basin State Park and Phil and Carla drove over in the afternoon and we sat in our trailer and chatted most of the afternoon. There were from the Austin, Texas, area and had been married one year longer than us. We exchanged emails and promised if we were ever in Austin or if they were ever in Palm Desert, we would look each other up.

Goblin Valley is a unique, small State Park off the beaten path. Campsite, Goblin Valley State Park Campsite, Goblin Valley State Park

You drive 12 miles off the highway and you are in the middle of nowhere. There is so little out by Goblin Valley you will find wild, open space, goblins, a small visitors center and a 25-site campground.
Goblin Valley Goblin Valley

There are several trails and Goblin Valley with its stone gnomes and uniquely shaped goblins.
Goblin Valley Closeup Goblin Valley Closeup

You should be able to hear a pin drop in this isolated camp; however, because of the lack of background noise, sound carries so if there are people laughing and talking in one part of the camp, it sounds like there is an entire regiment of people merrymaking. You should also be able to do some serious stargazing, which you can do providing the campers keep their lights to a minimum.
Camp at Goblin Valley State Park Camp at Goblin Valley State Park

There are very few large trees or bushes which contributes to the traveling of sound and light between camps. The Valley of Goblins is so unique and visitors can wander for hours among the strange shapes or have a picnic overlooking the valley.
Goblins Goblins

Dead Horse Point State Park is another state park that became very popular in light of the Federal Government shutdown. We were fortunate to have a one-night reservation. Because the Grand Canyon was also closed, we were grateful to have a chance to see breathtaking canyons.

Dead Horse Canyon Dead Horse Canyon

The campground has only 21 sites, but the Park has an extensive visitor center and plenty of hikes. We chose the Big Horn Overlook which we could hike from our camp. The views on this hike were spectacular. Later a ranger told us that the views from this trail are the same ones that Canyonlands visitors see. At the end of the trail, a crevice with dropoffs on each side blocked the last overlook. It was a pretty easy jump, except if you looked down because then your heart would get stuck in your throat envisioning how far you could fall. Because I am not a Big Horn sheep, I declined, but Bill jumped. On the rocks, Bill chatted a group from Lake Tahoe.
West Rim Trail, Dead Horse State Park West Rim Trail, Dead Horse State Park

Bill on rock that drops off down to canyon

Bill on rock that drops off down to canyon

Views of the canyon

Views of the canyon

Little chipmunk Little chipmunk

From our camp, we could bike to Dead Horse Point and this was another spectacular view of canyons. We were grateful and decided we didn’t have to feel deprived about not seeing the Grand Canyon. There are also nine miles of mountain biking trails, which we did not get to explore. Instead in the morning we rode our bikes back out to Dead Horse Point for another look at the canyons before hitching up.
Dead Horse Point overlook Dead Horse Point overlook
Bike rider on the trail Bike rider on the trail

DeadhorsePoint4

Blanding is another small town, population 3,600, along Hwy. 191. Many of the Mormon pioneer families that originally settled in Bluff ended up moving to Blanding, which was slightly more hospitable. The town sits at an elevation of 6000 feet. The Blanding Visitors Center and pioneer museum hold more fascinating history about the Hole-in-the-Rock settlers.

Edge of the Cedars State Park and Museum make for an interesting afternoon learning about the ancient Puebloan culture.

Edge of Cedars Museum, Blanding

Edge of Cedars Museum, Blanding

Connie descending 1000 year-old-kiva Connie descending 1000 year-old-kiva
Ladder to enter and exit kiva Ladder to enter and exit kiva

My favorite was getting to climb down a ladder into a Kiva, the dwelling structure built underground where the Indians lived. It was dark, with a dirt floor, no windows, and since it had recently rained, puddles to step around. The Kiva made me so grateful for my cozy trailer home. Emerging from the Kiva to blue sky was joyful, like breathing again after being in a stifling room. I couldn’t imagine living under the shelter of a Kiva.
IMG_6500

Blanding has a Dinosaur Museum but we didn’t have time for that.

The state government of Utah decided to pony up the money to open their parks the day we visited Blanding so we took the road from Blanding to Natural Bridges National Monument, a 30 to 40-minute drive through high desert. A sign on the Visitors Center said “Welcome back” but it was not open. The park, however, was open.
Entrance to Natural Bridges Entrance to Natural Bridges
Can you see the natural bridbe? Can you see the natural bridge?

There is a nine-mile drive with overlooks, so the Park makes it very convenient to see a lot from your automobile. But to really experience the Park, hiking the trails to the bridges, along the canyon bottom and on the Mesa tops is the ideal way to explore.

 

Overlooking a natural bridge

Overlooking a natural bridge

We did run into a friendly group of young people from Holland at Natural Bridges that were trying to help a hiker who had sprained her ankle at the bottom of the canyon. The Holland group did not know the sprained-ankle girl but were asking us if we had tape to bind her ankle and were going to hike down with the tape. Bill found an old, mangled box of tape in the bottom of his first aid kit and we sent it along. As we were leaving, the sprained-ankle girl emerged hopping on one foot, holding onto to several hikers and the Holland hiker returned our tape. I thought the Holland group was very thoughtful to stop their hike to help a stranger. The Hollanders were on a visit to see the National Parks but didn’t complain about not getting to see them. Instead, they told us about all the places they had been able to visit instead. It sure does make your day to run into positive, thoughtful friendly people.

View of valley prior to Natural Bridges View of valley prior to Natural Bridges

Pass in the rocks, highway to Natural Bridges

Pass in the rocks, highway to Natural Bridges