Monthly Archives: November 2016

Day 2 Versailles Palace and Gardens

ARRIVING VERSAILLES 

Our cab ride to Versailles, a distance of about seven miles from Le Pecq, was quick and easy, getting us to the Chateau before the crowds.  Clear skies and sunshine greeted us as we drove through the town.

Statue of Louis XIV

Statue of Louis XIV

Louis XIV was known as the “Sun King,” chosing the sun as his emblem, in reference to Apollo, the Greek god of peace and the arts.  He became king at the age of 5.  It was under his reign that the small palace or hunting lodge was transformed into the royal residence.  It took 30 years to complete.

Entering the Chateau at Versailles -- see if you can spot Kirk, Bill and Marcy

Entering the Chateau at Versailles — see if you can spot Kirk, Bill and Marcy

The site of Versailles was originally chosen, among other reasons, so Louis XIV could shelter his love affair with his mistress, Louise de La Vallière, one among many.  Versailles became the official seat of Royal power May 6, 1682

Statue on the gate in front of Chateau

Statue on the gate in front of Chateau

Kirk, Marcy and Bill at the entry gates to the chateau of Versailles

Kirk, Marcy and Bill at the entry gates to the chateau of Versailles

A peek into the Royal Courtyard and the Palace

A peek into the Royal Courtyard and the Palace

The chateau was the kingdom’s political capital and the seat of the Royal court from 1682 until 1789 when revolutionaries massacred the palace guard. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were ultimately dragged back to Paris and guillotined. The chateau remained intact but most of the interior furnishings disappeared during the revolution.

As we waited for our tour of the king’s private apartment, we had the privilege of viewing the gardens early in the day before any of the tourists arrived.

Overlooking one of the many gardens in morning dawn; considered the epitome of French formal gardens showcasing symmetry

Overlooking one of the many gardens in morning dawn; considered the epitome of French formal gardens showcasing symmetry

The French countryside was peaceful and it was easy to imagine all the Kings courtiers in the gardens. Louis XIV’s court was 4000-strong and no expense was spared to employ the greatest artists and craftspeople of the day to create the most extravagant dormitory in history, surrounded by 800 hectares of gardens and lands (approximately 2,050 acres).

Apollo fountain depicting the Sun God Apollo rising out of the sea,

Apollo fountain depicting the Sun God Apollo rising out of the sea,

Known as the Marly machine, the largest hydraulic work of the era was undertaken under Louis XIV to supply Seine water to the numerous pools, fountains and waterfalls of the gardens of Versailles.  Behind the Apollo Fountain stretched the Grand Canal providing a luminous vista, and was the setting for water festivals and boats sailing on it.

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Sample tree-lined road on the grounds at Versailles

The King’s appartements shows how the king lived, worked, and played.

King's apartment

King’s apartement

King's fascination with clocks was this extraordinary timepiece

King’s fascination with clocks was this extraordinary timepiece

In his bedroom, the king slept, held ceremonies, had lunch (Petit convert dinner), with up to 150 courtiers and people invited from outside the court, watching (in the 18th century). By the 1780’s, the king’s life had become more private, but imagine having 150 people observing you as you arose, dressed, ate, and conducted your day.

The ceremony of dressing became a ritual during Louis XIV’s reign, where dressing, having your hair done and makeup applied was part of the act for the public to observe.  Even the queen giving birth was on public display in the queen’s appartement for crowds of spectators to watch, ensuring the newborn’s legitimacy.

The Royal chapel at Versailles was the setting in 1770 for the wedding of the future King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.

Upper story of the Royal Chapel

Balcony of the Royal Chapel

The Royal schedule was as predictable as a Swiss watch, with the King in his bedchamber and the Queen in her bedchamber rousing at 8 am for the ceremony of the Petit Lever and the Grand Lever (the act of rising and dressing in public view).

Ceiling mural in the Royal Chapel

Ceiling mural in the Royal Chapel

The Royal procession was then lead through the hall of mirrors to the Royal chapel for morning mass and returned to the Council Chamber for late-morning meetings with ministers.

Chambers in the King's apartments

Chambers in the King’s apartments

King's library

King’s library

King's desk

Louis XV’s roll-top secretary, took 9 years to make and is a mechanical marvel

After lunch (referred to as Petit convert dinner served in the King’s bedroom), the king might ride or hunt or visit his library. Later he could join courtesans for an ‘appartement evening,’ extra work session or play billiards before supping at 10 pm (called Grand convert dinner).  At 11:30 pm was the retiring ceremony (Coucher) — all done in public view.

One of many opulent carpets in the king's apartments

One of many opulent carpets in the king’s apartments

THE GRAND TRIANON

After a lovely lunch break outside under the trellis in a cafe tucked away in the gardens, we walked from the main palace to the Grand Trianon. Built in 1687, the Grand Trianon is a small palace of pink marble.  Built by Louis XIV to escape the pomp and ceremony of the court, the Grand Trianon was also the setting for Louis XIV’s love affair with Madame de Montespan.

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Looking from the courtyard to the Grand Trianon

A view of the gardens from a wing of The Grand Trianon facing the walkway

A view of the gardens from a wing of The Grand Trianon facing the walkway

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Bed chambers of the Grand Trianon

A Royal mistress was called a favorite.  Louis XIV’s favorites were Duchess de La Vallière, the Marquis de Montespan, and the Marquise de Maintenon.

Walkway of the Grand Trianon

Walkway of the Grand Trianon

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Malachite Salon in the Grand Trianon

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Rooms of the Grand Trianon

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Talk about contrasting colors — almost hurts the eyes

Famed for its French formal gardens in geometrical patterns, the marble Trianon was surrounded by tens of thousands of hardy and tuberous plants. The plants were planted in pots that could be changed every day and thus create a colorful and scented spectacle.

Gardens of the Grand Trianon

Gardens of the Grand Trianon

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Bill looks back toward the Grand Trianon

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Another view of the gardens with a wing of The Grand Trianon behind

Other famous occupants of the Grand Trianon were Napolean Bonaparte and his second wife Empress Marie Louise and King Louise-Philippe. General De Gaulle took on its restoration to host guests of the republic.

General DeGaulle photo in the "Trianon -sous-Bois"

General DeGaulle photo in the “Trianon -sous-Bois”

By this time, it was pretty hard to absorb much, but I do recall standing in front of a photo for a long time, thinking to myself the photo must represent more the actual affairs of men than all the grand, infamous lives of the king’s and the court that historians write about.  Notice the look of concentration on the Ministere’s face — looks like hard work to me.

Photo of Andre Malraux, Ministere des Affaires

Photo of Andre Malraux, Ministere des Affaires

Set for a State dinner

Set for a State dinner

THE PETITE TRIANON

The Petite Trianon was built between 1762 and 1768 for the private use of Louis XV and and his favorite, Madame De Pompadour, again to escape the rigors of the court in privacy.

The Salon de compagnie, game room and music room of the Petit Trianon

The Salon de compagnie, game room and music room of the Petit Trianon

Sofa and arm chairs placed in the Petit Trianon in 1868

Sofa and arm chairs placed in the Petit Trianon in 1868

Queens bedroom which was occupied by Marie Antoinette from 1777-1789

Queens bedroom which was occupied by Marie Antoinette from 1777-1789

Looking fashionable “avoir bel air” was common at court

Queens bedroom in Petit Trianon

Queens bedroom in Petit Trianon

In 1774 Louis XVI gave the petite Trianon to Marie-Antoinette and it became her refuge. It is surrounded by English-style landscaped plants.

View of Garden of Plants that Gardeners and Botanist Bernard De Jussieu began creating in 1750

View of Garden of Plants that Gardeners and Botanist Bernard De Jussieu began creating in 1750

One of four paintings in Grand Dining Room titled Fishing by Gabriel-Francois Doyen

One of four paintings in Grand Dining Room titled Fishing by Gabriel-Francois Doyen — Fishing? 

Elaborate wainscoting by Honoré Guibert in the Petit Trianon

Elaborate wainscoting by Honoré Guibert in the Petit Trianon

Eventually Marie-Antoinette began constructing the Queen’s Hamlet, a peasant village built around a lake with rustic workshops on the outskirts of her property.  The hameau included a working farm that raised animals and grew crops.

artist Olafur Eliasson Modern fountain installed at Versailles 2016

Artist Olafur Eliasson Modern fountain installed at Versailles 2016

Apollo Fountain at day's end

Apollo Fountain at day’s end

Sun setting on gardens at Versailles

Sun setting on gardens at Versailles

Days end at palace at Versailles

Days end at palace at Versailles

After touring this last palace, we ran-walked back to the entrance to Versailles to catch our cab for home.

A portrayal of what the Grand Canal must have looked like in the days of the Royal court

A portrayal of what the Grand Canal must have looked like in the days of the Royal court

What a grand palace and accomplishment for Louis XIV, the Chateau de Versailles, with its gardens, palaces, fountains, grand canal, it’s royal court, courtiers, spies, military guards, servants, 2,300 rooms, 300 sculptures, 2000+ Windows.  And the entertainment:  celebrations, fireworks, theater, ballet, hunting, music, board games, games of chance, billiards, Jeu de paume, boating — no time for boredom.  The Palace is a museum today dedicated to “all the glories of France.”  On September 3, 1783, the Treaty of Versailles was signed here which establishes the independence of the United States of America.  There were 7.7 million visitors to the Versailles Estate in 2014.

Bill trying to read map but a sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

Bill trying to read map but sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

 

Arriving Paris September 8, 2016

Imagine the excitement.  After planning for months, thinking about packing, packing, driving to LA, flying overnight, landing in France at CDG airport, taxi’ng to the 6th Arrondissement [6e], we are finally in Paris.  We first check into our hotel for the night, Hotel Atlantis at 4 Rue du Colombier.  We are in the St-Germain-des-Prés quartier, near Saint Sulpice Chapel.

Hotel Atlantis

Hotel Atlantis

Kirk and Marcy are right around the corner in their apartment where they have been living for a week.  We have been up for 24 hours I am sure, so after checking in, we longed for a shower and to stretch out.  Bags are delivered to our second-floor room overlooking the street by an attendant.  The elevator had just barely enough room for Bill and I if we stood facing one direction with our arms at our side, no movement.  With the windows open, all the excitement of Paris floats through the open window.

Welcoming Bed in the Hotel Atlantis

Welcoming Bed in the Hotel Atlantis

Overlooking the balcony of our room to street below

Before I realize it, I am asleep when I awake with a start, hearing people shouting and chanting, more shouting, more chanting, horns blaring, sirens. Jumping up to look out my balcony window, I see a street full of people with signs, balloons, loud speakers, and I don’t understand a word they are saying.  But apparently we have arrived just in time for a protest march.

Parisians marching in protest

Parisians marching in protest

The loud speaker continues to interrupt my attempt to rest and marchers keep coming for blocks.  I believe it is related to education. So begins our Parisian adventure.  No rest in sight, we meet up with Kirk and Marcy at their apartment for cheese, bread and wine and a tour of their pied-à-terre.  On the 4th floor, they have views in both directions, a kitchen, a separate bedroom, and lots of space and Paris nightlife entertains them at night through the open windows.  We set off at last for our first dining experience. Kirk has scouted the restaurants and found one he thinks will work.

Marcy leads the way to our dinner at Pizza Chic

Marcy leads the way to our dinner at Pizza Chic

Alas, it appears our restaurant is chic with lots of people and without a reservation on a Thursday night, cannot seat us.  An excuse to wander the streets, passing the patrons eating on the street and peering into restaurant after restaurant.  We finally decide on another Italian restaurant.  It is our first night in Paris.

Kirk contemplating at our Italian Restaurant

Kirk contemplating at our Italian Restaurant

We are all ready to get some rest in preparation for our auto trip to Le Pecq where we will board our Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin.

DAY 1 of Cruise

I can’t wait to find a cafe for morning cappuccino.  Our small table is right on the street where workmen are installing a Metro sign.  Always in Paris workmen are hammering, sawing and busy with construction.  Imagine our surprise when the cafe owner asks us politely to move our table toward the street just a pinch; not quite far enough, just another inch.  We comply, with no idea why he wanted our table moved two inches.  Then the owner pulls up the floor boards directly to the left of us to expose a large cavity beneath the restaurant.  A delivery man pushes in several loads of food and supplies that are stacked on a lift that disappears down the cavity, the floor boards are restored to their position and we are charmed by the ingenuity of the French to utilize every inch of space.  We continue with our cappuccino

Always so elegant, even on the sidewalk at table for two

Always so elegant, even on the sidewalk at table for two

First cappuccino and croissant in Paris

First cappuccino and croissant in Paris

kirk has arranged a van to pick the four of us up and drive us to Le Pecq.  But when I fry to fit myself and one luggage piece in the minuscule elevator, I end up jamming the elevator door.  I can’t seem to get the elevator to move and I can’t get the elevator door open.  Baffled, I finally decide I better get downstairs somehow so I force the door open, grab my suitcase and sprint down the stairs.  Kirk is waiting and the van is double parked.  Between Bill and I, we manage to shuffle the rest of the luggage down the stairs while waiting for the attendant, who has gone to see what the problem is.  Out the door we run and down the street.  Soon we are on our way through the French countryside and before we know it, arrive in Le Pecq where our ship hostess, Mimi, gives us a big welcome.

Our first glimpse of Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin

Our first glimpse of Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin

Our main task now was to find our staterooms, get unpacked, explore the ship, eat lunch, and be ready for our first tour of St. Germaine en Laye.  Remember what the first day of school was like?  Excitement, dread  new clothes, new classmates, learning so many things — I felt all of it.  So excited to be on our ship, home for eight nights, to see and learn as much as I could.

Our stateroom

Our stateroom

Our stateroom shower room

Our stateroom shower room

We were ready for lunch.  Our dining room was beautiful and the staff gracious and almost over-the-top with meeting our every need.

Our beautiful dining room aboard ship

Our beautiful dining room aboard ship

Cups, utensils, neatly lined up waiting for the 300 guests

Cups, utensils, neatly lined up waiting for the 300 guests

Our first tour was to St. Germaine en Laye just a short bus ride up the hill to the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, begun in 1124 by Louis VI as a fortified hunting-lodge in the forests of St Germain.  Next to the Chateau is a park with a view of Paris and the Seine.

Overlooking Paris from park next to Chateau, St. Germaine En Laye

Overlooking Paris from park next to Chateau, St. Germaine En Laye

War with England and subsequent actions resulted in the village and the chateau being burned between 1337 and 1346.  Charles V, the richest monarch in Europe, demolished the burned buildings, and between 1364 and 1367, rebuilt a château on the site of Saint Louis’ defensive walls.

Inside the Chateau

Inside the Chateau

Between1230 and 1238, the chapel was erected, separate from the other buildings, and the entire complex was surrounded by a defensive wall.  The chapel survived the burning of the original chateau.

Chapel at Chateau St. Germaine En Laye

Chapel at Chateau St. Germaine En Laye

Today the Chateau is an archeological museum which we did not go through.  We were on the run to catch the bus up the hill (we missed the first bus), then catch up with the first group from our ship, then a quick view of the chateau and chapel before we were ushered back on the bus.  Except for those of us that preferred to walk back down, which, of course, Kirk, Marcy, Bill and I did.

Trekking down steps and road to our ship

Trekking down steps and road to our ship

We stopped at a church to read the plaque (which was in French) but I was more intrigued by the beautiful, old tree that shaded the courtyard.

Beautiful, old tree

Beautiful, old tree

The chapel

The chapel

Kirk, Marcy, and Bill studying the plaque

Kirk, Marcy, and Bill studying the plaque

We rushed back down the hill, but not so fast that we didn’t stop to enjoy the goats in someone’s yard along the way.

Goats on the path down

Goats on the path down

Our first day with Viking was passing too quickly.  Back on the ship, we showered and dressed for dinner.  But first was cocktail hour (we skipped), safety briefing (all on deck with life jackets even though the depth of water was hardly enough to drown in) and Welcome Briefing with our Program Director Mimi.

Briefings every evening with Mimi who charmed us all

Briefings every evening with Mimi who charmed us all

Mimi not only briefed us on the following day’s events, but kept us laughing with her stories.  Mimi was down-to-earth and outstanding at her job and was a favorite among all the passengers.  We had our first of many dinners on board, with staff bending over backwards to fill every empty glass, bring any tantalizing dish we desired, and enough food for an entire day with dessert.

Typical dining experince

Typical dining experince

Then we were off to talk to the concierge about arranging a taxi to take the four of us to Versailles the following day while most of the passengers had an excursion to Paris, about 40minutes by taxi from Le Pecq.

Swans on the Seine outside my stateroom window

Swans on the Seine outside my stateroom window

How was one to sleep?  So much had happened in the last 48 hours and tomorrow we would leave for Versailles early to arrive before the crowds.  Well, I don’t think we did sleep much that night.  We were too busy thinking of all we had seen and all that was to come.

Watching a barge go by from the upper deck

Watching a barge go by from the upper deck

Barge passing us

Barge passing us

Coming Up.  Day 2  Versailles