Author Archives: travelwithconnie@aol.com

ON THE ROAD Pandemic 2020

Remodeled Funfinder Trailer; new cushion covers, new wallpaper, new paint
Lake Hemet
Our first night Idyllwild Regional Park

Here we are with our newly remodeled Fun Finder Trailer ready to get on the road, Pandemic or no Pandemic. We left Palm Desert and drove one hour to Idyllwild at an elevation of 5,300’. After being locked down since mid-March, it was wildly wonderful to be in the outdoors at last.

Plymouth, CA, at Mike and Joanne Baldinelli’s Vineyard
Joanne, Mike, dog, and Bill

First stop — Plymouth, California. Mike and Joanne Baldinelli’s fabulous vineyard with full hookups, fantastic meals by Chef Mike and Assistant Chef Joanne, plenty of wine, and dogs, bulls, frogs, spiders, mice, owls, birds, — paradise to be outdoors and with friends instead of locked at home.

Next stop: Sea Ranch. This was our first opportunity to visit Sea Ranch as local authorities had told owners, visitors and anyone that didn’t live there to STAY AWAY. All the rentals shut down and had to be canceled. We decided do or die, we were going to visit our home. We were the first ones to be in the house since the beginning of the shutdown mid-March.

Another Buck on our driveway
Sara Joseph and Bill

From Sea Ranch, we returned to the Baldinelli’s where we had a trailer pad with all utilities. Several day trips included a drive to Sacramento to see friend Sara and Bill’s Aunt Angie who had been hospitalized, and family. Sara took us to a Persian Shahzad Restaurant where we had the run of the entire restaurant. So fun to get together with another human being and good friend and chat all afternoon. Great visit.

Silver Lake West Campsite
Bill and Summer and Alicia at camp
Summer cooking

Next stop: Silver Lake. Arrived to a completely empty campground the Sunday after July 4th holiday. Our choice site was at the top of Silver Lake West. Bill and Summer joined us with their friend Alicia and her dog. Summer loves cooking and gave us gourmet meals. It was like getting out of prison to be outdoors enjoying the beautiful nature surrounding us.

We were off! How happy to be On the Road heading north. We managed to snag overnight camps at Redcrest and Klamath; other than that, all we knew was we were heading to Cascade National Park on the Washington/Canadian border. What JOY to be in the redwoods, hiking the trails from Prairie Creek to the ocean and back. PURE HAPPINESS.

We hit Brookings, Oregon, on our way north on Highway 1 along the coast of Oregon. Happy indeed to meet up with Sun City friends that drove their RV to Brookings for the summer — Gary and Nancy Socha.

Driving north along the Oregon coast, we stopped for one night at Port Orford and met up with another Sun City friend, Kathy Ashford. We were high on adrenaline to be able to talk to a live human being, and despite cold temperatures, we braved the wind and cold to enjoy dinner outside with Kathy. Our next night found us at Sutton National Forest Campground outside Florence; you can imagine our excitement to get a site with hookups in a first come first serve campground. Hiking in sand dunes really sapped our energy, which was very good to go to bed exhausted and happy in cool weather.

Our next stop was the Astoria Seaside KOA in Hammond, Oregon. Amusing camper across from us set up pink flamingoes and a pink couch and was about the happiest camper I’ve ever experienced. You can see I brought along a puzzle mat which rolls up so we could work on puzzles on the move. Right across from the KOA was Ft. Stevens State Park with a paved bike trail. Every day felt like a dream come true.

We drove over the Colombia River at Astoria on a historic bridge and followed back roads the rest of the day heading inland towards Mt. Rainer National Park. We were able to get a secluded site for two nights at Shady Firs RV Park.

Using the All Trails app, we discovered a fantastic hike where we were the only folks on the trail all day. We were deep in a forest and hiking back had a peekaboo view of Mt. Rainer. One of the best hikes of the entire summer.

We left Shady First to drive to Iron Creek Campground in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest— the only reservation I could get close to Mt. Rainer. This was an old growth forest along the Cispus River in Oregon. I’ve never been in a more oppressive camp with moss dripping off all the trees, rare sunlight able to penetrate the tree canopy, no birds singing, no butterflies — I was definitely ready to move on and missed my Sierras.

Our next stop was Alder Lake Park Campground, Eatonville, WA. We found varied responses to the Pandemic as we traveled and Alder Lake was surely one of the most unusual. This Campground was packed with families and the lake was swarming with groups out for a picnic and swimming and boating; we tried social distancing but to no avail — no matter where we moved, a group would move in front, next to, or around us. I think I saw one lady with a mask.

We left Alder Lake for the worst drive of the trip; we had to get through, around, past Seattle. We decided to stay at a KOA in Burlington, Washington, before driving to the Cascade National Park. What a great decision — we loved this KOA — and secured a site on the outer edge facing a forest — very private. We ended up spending another four days here when rain threatened our stay in the Cascades, and I rode my bike back and forth to the park Laundromat — I was usually the only one using it.

Finally, we were about to reach our destination — the North Cascades National Park. I had been able to get a five-night reservation in Newhalem Campground. What a disappointment the first site was. Fortunately, we were able to move to a fantastic campsite in the same campground for the next two nights which we absolutely loved. Then because rain was moving in, we returned to Burlington KOA where we had utilities and heat.

What an awesome experience the North Cascades National Park was — first for its rugged, natural beauty; second the amazing river and lakes with an eerie turquoise color; third the extremely cold water in the lake and Skagit river — although we were there in August we saw only two brave souls attempting to get in the river and no one swimming in the lake. The terrain is steep. The road into the North Cascades was a narrow, two-lane road with no shoulder and no place to pull over so for us a harrowing drive. A wonderful, old-style campground reminded me of camping in Yosemite with my grandparents. Hiking and exploring was thoroughly rewarding and renewed our battered Covid spirits.

Arriving back at the Burlington/Anacortes KOA with time to spare, we took a side trip to Anacortes and found this wonderful park with a well marked trail and no one around. At Anacortes, you can catch a ferry that will take you to Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, the southern tip of Vancouver Island. Americans were pulling every trick of the trade to get into Canada but we heard most were turned back. We could only wave at our Canadian friends in Victoria and hope someday when this Pandemic is over we might see them again. We had gone as far as we could drive north so it was time to turn around and head back to Northern California.

This ends the first part of our road trip. Now time to turn around and head south. Go to Road Trip Pandemic Part II.

On the Road Pandemic Part II

Now we had seven days to drive from Washington State south to Sea Ranch. This would not be a leisurely drive but dedicated with stops every night. The first challenge was maneuvering through Seattle. Using the AllStays app, we found Holiday Fam Camp for military and veterans at McChord AFB. How amazed we were to find this camp that had the feel of a National Park within a lovely forest so close to an urban area. The sites were well spaced apart; our site had hookups. We unloaded the bikes and rode for miles on a bike trail that took us on flat surface past fields and open space with flocks of birds, past the air field and eventually to the main buildings on the base. Truly a favorite of the trip.

Our next stop was a HipCamp mushroom farm on Sauvie Island on the outskirts of Portland. We ended up on a very narrow road atop a dyke with drop offs on each side, the river to our left and fields to our right. We missed our turn, which dropped off before we even saw it, so we kept driving to the first place wide enough to turn around, miles beyond our mushroom farm. We startled some fishermen and one man came over to say we were about to hit his car and asked us what we were doing. He condescendingly told us there was a turnaround down the road. I can understand his dismay as we were recklessly trying to turn our rig around in a place where it was obviously near impossible. We had another harrowing drive back to the mushroom farm and did a U-turn down a steep drive. After waiting another 45 minutes for the HipCamp host to text us about where to park, we settled in a large clearing. Whew! What an ordeal. We never found any mushrooms, but our host farmer was now growing medicinal cannibis. We loved the privacy of the site with electric and water hookups. We were surrounded on all sides by farmland — very picturesque, peaceful, quiet and enough blackberries to pick for breakfast. The farm to our south was a potato field.

Our next stop: a county Park in Junction City, Oregon, Richardson Park RV Park. Very impressive campground with plenty of activities for everyone. We had a good hike after dinner to the lake in the Park and bike ride the next morning on the paved bike path. We found County Parks were often some of the nicest campgrounds with well-kept facilities; a bonus is a lot of county parks offer hookups.

Driving past Grants Pass Oregon to Lake Selmac County Park in Selma, Oregon, we settled in a private camp site in a forested area. After watching two young boys frolicking in the lake, we decided if they could play in this lake, surely we could swim. Alas, not the best decision as the water was pretty stagnant and home to flocks of ducks and their droppings and feathers. This County Park surrounded a lake with several campgrounds. We enjoyed biking and exploring. Our site offered hookups.

Our next stop was Mystic Forest RV Park in Klamath, stopping in Crescent City to meet Gary and Nancy Socha for lunch. We loved visiting with the Socha’s and walking along the harbor. Mystic Forest was a favorite of mine; the hosts are a lovely couple that were keeping their RV park open and running while the State Parks in the area were either partially open or closed, which meant the elderly couple running Mystic Forest were doing double duty finding spaces for everyone. We were squeezed between two trailers and felt like intruders in our neighbor’s camps. Exiting from one of the trailers was a blonde bombshell that turned out to be the best, excellent mother of a screaming toddler and two other children. They had driven all the way from back east with their three children in their motor home. Her profession was an emergency room nurse.

Continuing south, we had two more stops, both unmemorable. The first night we stayed at Giant Redwoods RV Campground in Myers Flat where we had hot weather and had to run the AC, a first for trip so far. The next day we left Hwy 101 at Willits and drove west on a winding, twisting road to Ft. Bragg; to say the least, it was a challenging drive. The second night we spent at the Manchester Beach Mendocino Coast KOA and it was packed. Many of the RV Parks that were open seemed to us to be impacted because of closure of National Forest and State Campgrounds. We had the good fortune or bad fortune to get to listen to Mexican music from a large group staying in one of the KOA cabins so not exactly relaxing. Finally the next day we pulled into Sea Ranch for two weeks of rest.

Bluff Trail at The Sea Ranch, Ca

Dave and Cathy visit us for a couple nights — lots of good food, wine, hikes, and soaks in the hot tub. So happy to have friends share some time and memories with us.

Dave and Cathy on our Deck
Selfie
Happy Hour at Sea Ranch

Sea Ranch was a nice break for us from trailer travel, a two-week respite, albeit with daily maintenance chores to keep our home shipshape for renters. We were enjoying beautiful, clear skies and the beauty of Sea Ranch and were oblivious to the wildfires burning to the south and east. It took a text from friends Steve and Marty telling us they had been turned back because of road closures on their way to Sea Ranch from the Bay Area. We turned on the television. What a shock to see all the devastation just hours from us, yet skies were clear on our piece of the coast. We tried to extend our stay at Sea Ranch but our home was booked for months out; what to do? After many fruitless tries to find parks that would take us, we decided our best choice was to get through the Bay Area as fast as we could, avoid the smoke and get over the Sierras to Hwy. 395. This turned out to be an excellent idea, skirting the Bay Area and pushing through Rio Vista to Jackson and Hwy. 88 past beloved Silver Lake and over the Sierras to Gardnerville, then south on Hwy 395. We drove down many dead ends searching for campsites, finally landing a site for one night at Bridgeport Reservoir Marina. Sunset was stunning, the camp was quiet, we were right on the reservoir, with duck families and nights were cool, skies clear. Luck was with us, at least for one night.

Leaving Bridgeport, driving south on 395 to Lee Vining, we veered right on Hwy 120 towards Yosemite hoping to find something. Here we had one of those magical moments when we discovered Aspen Grove Campground, a National Forest Campground that was first come first serve — AND there were available sites! We grabbed the first campsite we saw because, well, because it was there and available. One of the tricks we learned on the road was to arrive at first come first serve campgrounds before noon, Sundays and Mondays were good bets, and avoid arriving on Friday or Saturday.

Because we were in Campsite 1, many campers thought we were the campground hosts, resulting in lots of conversations. A group of young girls that had driven from Hayward, Ca, and were getting desperate for a campsite asked our permission and we granted it. I told them if no one was in the site and there was no tag on the post, it was first come and first serve and they should grab it before someone else did. They were giddy with joy. Another young man came running past our camp saying a bear was in camp. Next we heard the most raucous noise, car horns honking, pots banging, yelling. We learned the next day from the “real” camp host a bear had come visiting and took dinner right off the table as the campers were eating, sending them scurrying.

A day trip took us on Hwy 120 towards Yosemite to Ellery Lake. We were dying for a swim but this beautiful alpine lake showed no sign of swimmers. Undaunted, Bill waded in the snow-melted, frigid waters and dove in. Later he told me, he quickly realized he was in over his head as his body temperature dropped rapidly and he knew he had to get out of this ice water before he became a statistic. I got my feet wet.

We stopped by a visitor store in Lee Vining that was actually open [almost all of the visitor centers on our trip were closed] and met a kind lady who shared area history. How surprising to learn we had in common Sun City Palm Desert, where her sister lived. This lady told us about a hike that was off the beaten track and not likely to have many hikers. We followed her advice and had the trail literally to ourselves with stunning scenery, like hiking in Yosemite, next to a stream bed and up a canyon.

I point out how clear the air was on this hike because our luck was about to change. We came back to camp and noticed a dark, ominous cloud to the west. The cloud grew in size and the bright day turned gray. Concerned about the cloud being smoke, we drove to town to see if there was a fire and if we should leave. Sure enough, we learned there was a fire burning to the southwest and smoke was drifting over the Sierras. We were in no danger. Back at camp, one of the local store owners drove up and because he thought we were the camp hosts, told us he’d never seen anything like this season in all his years running a sporting and outdoor store. Next came a family with a sad tale that their reservations in Mammoth Lake had just been canceled. Where were they to go?

A day that had begun so beautiful had turned quickly. It wasn’t long before the Camp Host stopped by to tell us we had to evacuate the next day. The smoke was coming from what became known as the Creek Fire. It began near Shaver Lake on the West side of the Sierras and and was described as the fourth-largest wildfire and largest single Source fire in modern California history. As of December 16, 2020, the Creek Fire had burned 379,895 acres. Hundreds of people had to be rescued. I felt we were fortunate that we had reservations in the San Bernardino National Forest so at least we had somewhere to go. But no, our camp host informed us all of San Bernardino NF was closing also. We were sad to leave. The next day we headed south on Hwy 395, destination unknown. Wonder of wonders, we somehow ended up on a side road, Hwy 14 and came upon Red Rock Canyon State Park where there was a plethora of sites. Who would know? The elevation is 2600’; temperatures were mild in early September.

I found this Campgound and State Park fascinating; first, because I’ve never heard of it; second, it’s in the middle of nowhere with all these campsites and not a soul to be seen; third, there was a unique beauty in the isolation, scenic desert cliffs, and the utter stillness.

Maybe someday we’ll return to this unusual landscape; but while wildfires were burning up California, this was an oasis not known to many and explored by me as I walked the entire campground. We did have a reservation that night in Mountain Valley RV Park in Tehachapi so we pressed on. We weren’t ready to go home so we ended our trip where we started, outside Idyllwild at Lake Hemet. We spent another eight nights at Lake Hemet where we had hookups. The nights were very cool and daytime saw smoke drift from fires burning to the north. We returned to Palm Desert September 18, 2020.

Lake Hemet Campground in September

So what happened next? Read on to Road Trip Pandemic Three because we were not finished with our travels, just temporarily sidelined.

ON THE ROAD Pandemic Part III

Home in Palm Desert with temperatures still hovering between 100 and 110, Connie was ready to get back on the road. But fortunately or unfortunately, the trailer slide would not close, fortunately because it happened in front of our house, after working perfect for 3000+ miles. Enter Mobile RV Repair. New parts were ordered. And then we waited; and waited; and waited. Chris wanted us to visit Arizona. Well, then, let’s go. We sent a text the next morning to Chris we were on our way to Prescott, AZ, and could they join us?

We managed to connect with Chris and Dave. We had a good hike together and returned to our Bed and Breakfast for a dinner on their patio, courtesy of the local Safeway.

Look who came along for the ride — the newest member of the Hayes household and who we suspect now runs the house — Cody. We loved downtown Prescott but were somewhat surprised at the lackadaisical approach by some business owners to wearing masks.

While we were away in Prescott, Mobile RV Guy finally received all parts necessary to repair the trailer slide. Yeah! Back in business. It didn’t take us long to pack up the trailer and get back on the road. We got as far as Yucaipa Regional Park Campground, less than an hour down the road.

Yucaipa Regional Park is another county campground with large sites, hookups, an excellent stopover. Since my sister’s name is Chris, aka Chrissy, what a coincidence to find this graffiti under our picnic table left by previous campers.

If you have ever driven Hwy 210 through Pasadena, you will know how happy we were to have that drive behind us. We headed north on Interstate 5, turning west at Lost Hills on Hwy 46, we found ourselves in beautiful, empty landscape, mile after mile of California hills heading towards Paso Robles. Our next stop was the Aviso Vineyard Campground we found through HipCamp. Paso Robles has become a big wine-producing area, yet still has a rural feel. We fell in love with this area.

We loved this site on the duck pond and watching ducks is more fascinating than it sounds. We were surrounded by vineyards and farm land with cows, horses, nighttime howling of coyotes, and complete privacy. Of three dogs, this sweet dog adopted me and we toured the vineyard together.

Leaving Paso Robles, we drive north on Hwy 101 through the Salinas Valley, some of the most stunning farmland in California. Stretching for miles are fields growing in the richest soil, a dark brown earth color. Most of the lettuce we eat is grown in Salinas, also known as the Salad Bowl of the World. Below are photos from Getty Images. The farm workers are unsung heroes, IMO; I get goosebumps driving through this country.

You can almost smell rich earth. There is also the longest nonstop vineyard along this stretch of highway. You will see the workers harvesting food at farm after farm. We arrive at UVAS Pines RV Park in Morgan Hill by late afternoon. The next morning, we head south to Calero County Park, after having found a challenging five-mile hike on AllTrails app.

Rest stop on our hike in Calero County Park

Our hike in the rolling hills and California Oak woodland challenged us because every hill we topped, we were sure we were coming into home base, only to be met with another rolling hill to hike up and over. Despite this, I found this hike invigorating and welcome exercise.

We made plans to visit the Bay Area to see friends and Bill and Summer, leaving our trailer in Morgan Hill, about an hour’s drive.

Best ever visit with friend, Betty, while Bill dropped in on his friend, Ken, and spent the afternoon telling lies, oops, I mean stories with Ken and Michael and drinking copious amounts of wine.

Photo of Bill and Summer.

By late afternoon, we caught up with our son Bill at his home; Summer joined us in the evening and we had an impromptu back yard pizza party — it was a lifesaver to see these friends and Bill and Summer in Pandemic year, month 10 of lockdown.

Tired but happy, we drive back to Morgan Hill for the night. The next day we will drive to Petaluma with a stop at the KOA, then on to Sea Ranch.

Bill makes a list of all the projects he wants to get done when we arrive at Sea Ranch while Connie works on courtyard garden. Our neighbors, Bob and Priscilla, join us for Happy Hour. Priscilla took me to the knit shop in town and got me started on knitting a scarf, refreshing very rusty skills I had in a past life.

A unique challenge was finding ways to get together with old friends. How to social distance? Where to meet? We leave Sea Ranch for the Bay Area with plans to see friends and find an overnight somewhere.

Ken and Marilyn host a garage get together for the Bernards and Bill and Connie, complete with candles, appetizer plates for each couple, hot tea in pumpkin cups, hearty soup, desserts, great conversation, plenty of wine — wonderful, despite the cold. Notice Ken’s haircut, or lack of that is.

Where to stay? Obviously we were not going to stay with Bill and Summer under strict orders to socially distance, etc. AllStays App to the rescue. We found Del Valle Regional Park in Livermore, about a 40-minute drive. We reserved a campsite with hookups on line. What a beautiful park. Back on the road the next day heading for Morgan Hill.

We were headed for HipCamp property Ye Old Saloon in Morgan Hill. Rachel met us as we pulled in. Because of recent rains, mud was an issue, not ordinary mud, very stick-to-your-shoes, stick-to-your-tires mud. After several tries, we finally got the trailer parked. We had full hookups here for an overnight stay at a beautiful property.

Rachel, our host, could not have been nicer or more hospitable. We shared stories and found out we had a mutual acquaintance, the current superintendent of the Morgan Hill School District. Rachel helped us with parking and history of Ye Old Saloon which was a stopover for wagons in its day. As we left, Rachel came to our assistance with a hose and spray nozzle and we hosed off all the mud from the tires.

Driving south to Paso Robles, we follow a winding road that takes us to a high plateau of Oak woodland to Windwood Ranch, a private campground. There is a campsite with hookups for trailers, a communal kitchen, a communal fire pit, teepees and retro trailers with music greats names like Jimi, Janis, Eagles, Stevie. We arrive in time to enjoy the sunset. Only one other couple is here this night. Very cold evening.

Our last night on the road, we stop at the Ventura Ranch KOA in Santa Paula. This eccentric camp has something for everyone, including a zip line and ropes course, teepees and wagons, a nature trail. We explored the campground and nature trail.

I’ll end this road trip with a photo of citrus growing in Ojai, just down the road from the Ventura KOA. We end our road trip November 21, 2020. Home in Palm Desert at least for now.

Copenhagen, Denmark Day 1

Aboard Oceania’s Marina Cruise Ship sailing from Copenhagen, Denmark, September 3, 2019, to Amsterdam, Netherlands September 17, 2019. Traveling with us are Dave and Cathy L.

AS FAMOUS CLOCKS GO, JENS Olsen’s World Clock is a sight to behold. Sitting pretty in a tower at Copenhagen’s City Hall, this gilded horological masterwork is geared to calculate global times and dates, and planetary positions with remarkable precision. And, as long as it continues to be wound once every week, it will continue to display this information for the next 2,500 years.

One of the most precise mechanical clocks in the world, Jens Olsen’s World Clock displays not just the local time, but also solar time, the exact time at locations around the globe, the relative positions of the stars and planets, sunrises and sunsets, the Gregorian calendar, the future dates of changing holidays, and more. 

Back of World Clock
Front of World Clock
Copenhagen City Hall

Helsinki, Finland Day 2

The Helsinki Cathedral overlooks the Senate Square; it is the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland; the statue is Martin Luther which stands in the Cathedral.

Bill at Viking Museum, Copenhagen

Hike on the Beach near Point Arena July 2018

Map below shows Schooner Gulch State Beach about 20 minutes north of Sea Ranch.  We arrived early and the sun was not yet shining as the fog and clouds kept it hidden.  Many folks were already on the beach walking their dogs.  Walking on sand gives a very nice cushion to walk on which made for pleasant hiking for senior citizens.  If you walk close to the ocean’s edge, the sand is wet and compacted, making it an even easier hike.  We arrived to find the tide out which meant we could walk to the next beach north, Bowling Ball Beach.

Schooner Beach

The first photo below is Schooner Beach.  From Schooner Beach we hiked up on the ridge on a path through the grass, not very well traveled as the grass was up to our knees.  We wondered if there was a way down to the beach to the north when we came upon a well-traveled trail and two couples.  When we asked where they were going, they replied “Bowling Ball Beach” so we followed them and the trail took us to steps down to the north beach.  The bottom four photos below are taken at Bowling Ball Beach; lucky for us the tide was out, enabling us to walk the entire beach and see the bowling balls.

Crazy interesting rock formations.

The rocks behind me in the ocean are the bowling balls, rows of round rocks and a few on the beach like the one I am pointing to.

Notice below the band from the cliffs extends across the sand past where Bill stands and out into the ocean beyond where I am.  If you are a geologist, you would be in heaven; as it is, we enjoyed the wonder of it all; tide was out so could see all the sea urchins

Bluff Trail barely visible through the tall grass.  Photo below shows beach stretching for several miles, or it felt like several miles after we hiked the entire length.

Beautiful sweet peas growing wild, vistas on the trail.

 

Why can’t my garden at home be so beautiful?  All growing wild with no care or help or fertilizer or water; just lucious.  Do you see the bumble bee working the flower?

Climbing up to the trailhead past redwoods lush greenery.  Bill is standing on the highway by the trailhead, hike over, sun just starting to peek through the clouds, redwood behind Bill.

Lunch at Trinks, above.  Sun out in all its glory.  And  finally, my treasures for the day. I had to be so careful to not bring   Home too   Many treasures so I carefully chose these five, some pieces of abalone, a round rock with a perfect hole [maybe for a tiny flower] and a little white rock with a blue center.  From the coast, Happy Hiking.

FROM THE CALIFORNIA COAST, HOPE YOU ENJOYED THIS HIKE.

Day 3: Giverny, Monet’s Gardens, & Vernon

GIVERNEY

Sunday and we rise and shine, get a quick breakfast with an incredible array of choices on our ship, the Viking Kadlin, and hop on our bus for our excursion to Giverney. One always has to remember their headphones and it always happens that someone forgets.  This morning we depart at 8:45 am.

Monet actually came to Giverny in 1883 when he was 43 and eventually was able to buy the large house with two acres of gardens, called the “Clos Normand” by his family.

Map of Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet

Map of Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet

Happy cows next to Monet's property, Seine Valley

Happy cows next to Monet’s property, Seine Valley

We enter the gardens early and have them to ourselves.  The land was purchased in 1895 for the gardens.  Monet diverted the Epte to make a lily pond and the resulting garden, with flowers spilling onto paths, and the famous “Tea-garden” bridge flanked by a mighty Willow.  The gardens have 100,000 annuals and even more perennials.  Although Claude Monet is famous for his paintings, I believe he was a gardener extraordinaire.  Sit back and enjoy my photos of the gardens called Jardin d’ Eau (Water Garden).

image

image

Plants everywhere, even growing underwater

Plants everywhere, even growing underwater

image

Boat on the lily pond

Boat on the lily pond

image

The famous weeping willows with water lilies covering the pond.

Japanese bridge in background; to right Kirk and Marcy

Japanese bridge in background; to right Kirk and Marcy

Even benches have an amazing esthetic

Even benches have an amazing esthetic

While viewing these beautiful gardens, some history of Claude Monet. Monet’s mother died when Claude was 16 and Claude was taken under his aunt’s wing. While visiting the Louvre in Paris, Claude observed many budding artists copying the old masters. But Claude, using a different approach, sat by a window and painted what he saw. Disillusioned with the traditional art taught at universities, Claude found a teacher in Charles Gleyre in Paris and it was here he met Renoir, Sisley and Bazille.

image

image

Over time, however, Monet became disillusioned by the teaching of Gleyre, finding it too academic for his independent spirit. During the 1860’s, Monet and Renoir started to work in similar lines and painted together. At the time Monet was so poor he was constantly having to borrow money. Renoir would bring food to Monet to keep him from starving, despite being very poor himself.

image

image

Monet married Camille Doncieux in 1870. Prior to their marriage, Camille became the model for many of Monet’s well-known paintings such as The Woman in the Green Dress. When Camille became pregnant and gave birth to their son, Jean (1867), Monet became so despondent over financial woes he threw himself in the Seine to end his life, unsuccessfully. The Royal Academy refused authorization for Monet’s art to be included in their 1871 exhibition.

image

Rudbeckia’s or black-eyed susans

image

Monet became one of a group of artists labeled “revolutionaries” by the Salon and he along with Pissarro, Sisley, Degas, Cézanne, and Renoir organized an exhibition of their own, the first Impressionist Exhibition (1874), at the time known as ‘Intransigents’. The critics were not favorable, saying their art was banal and they have never understood nature. The group was derided as incompetents and were attacked in condescending terms.

image

image

By the accepted art world of the time, the group of impressionist artists were considered defiant, rebellious and adamant in their refusal of accepted conventions. Monet was described as a violent anti-academic and the most forceful of the group of radical painters, yet certainly considered the leader of Impressionist Plein-air painting.

image

Dahlias, asters, cosmos, sunflowers are some of the flowers blooming this time of year.

image

Monet struggled financially. At Argenteuil he had been evicted from his cottage for defaulting on the rent. Manet procured a new home for Monet. The 1874 Impressionist Exhibition made a loss. To offset the losses, an Auction was organized by Renoir and the results were disasterous.

In 1876, Monet had found a new patron, Ernest Hoschedé. Monet moved to new painting territory from Argenteuil to Vétheuil farther down the Seine River. Here a second child was born, Michel, and here Camille died a painful death, probably from cancer. She was only 32.

Monet invited the Hoschedés to join he and the bedridden Camille in Vétheuil so into their home moved Alice Hoschedé with her husband, Ernest, and their six children and three servants.  Shortly after Camille’s death, Ernest left Vétheuil while Alice continued to live with Monet. After Ernest Hoschedé’s death in 1891, Monet and Alice were married. By 1883, Monet and his household had moved from Vétheuil to Giverny and Monet was able to purchase the Giverny estate in 1890.

BEAUTIFUL VARIETY OF DAHLIAS IN MONETS GARDENS

Not sure what this plant, below is but I love the fuzzy, purple colors like little puff balls

T

Now we come to the gardens in front of Monet’s home, Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet.  The pastel-pink stone farmhouse has been lovingly restored and is now a museum.  Monet lived for 43 years in this home.

Monet was 43 when he came to Giverney with Alice Hoschedés, her six children, and his two.

View from an upstairs bedroom on the Monet home.

Bedroom of th Monet Home with original art, including a Renoir

Dining area of Monet home in yellow.  Marcy on the left.

Copper pots in the kitchen.

Green shutters and steps accent pink farmhouse, Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet

Can you make out the haystacks to the right of middle of photo (below), actually called grainstacks.  Monet did a series of paintings of these grainstacks with different effects of light and instantaniety–grainstacks in winter, in snow, in morning light, in summer, on cloudy days and is well known for these grainstack paintings.

Marcy and I in front of one of the shops in the town of Giverney.

Charming town of Giverney

Below Marcy, Connie, Kirk

Monet lovingly cultivated his gardens and lily ponds and painted until his death (1926).

Monet’s art is at Musée D Orsay and Musée National De L’Orangerie in Paris.  If you are like me, you will love the beauty of these Plein air style paintings, water lilies, sailboats, women in the garden, luncheon on the grass, study of a figure outdoors — a sense you are outdoors in the sunlight, wind, clouds, light and shadow enjoying nature.

 

 

Day 2 Versailles Palace and Gardens

ARRIVING VERSAILLES 

Our cab ride to Versailles, a distance of about seven miles from Le Pecq, was quick and easy, getting us to the Chateau before the crowds.  Clear skies and sunshine greeted us as we drove through the town.

Statue of Louis XIV

Statue of Louis XIV

Louis XIV was known as the “Sun King,” chosing the sun as his emblem, in reference to Apollo, the Greek god of peace and the arts.  He became king at the age of 5.  It was under his reign that the small palace or hunting lodge was transformed into the royal residence.  It took 30 years to complete.

Entering the Chateau at Versailles -- see if you can spot Kirk, Bill and Marcy

Entering the Chateau at Versailles — see if you can spot Kirk, Bill and Marcy

The site of Versailles was originally chosen, among other reasons, so Louis XIV could shelter his love affair with his mistress, Louise de La Vallière, one among many.  Versailles became the official seat of Royal power May 6, 1682

Statue on the gate in front of Chateau

Statue on the gate in front of Chateau

Kirk, Marcy and Bill at the entry gates to the chateau of Versailles

Kirk, Marcy and Bill at the entry gates to the chateau of Versailles

A peek into the Royal Courtyard and the Palace

A peek into the Royal Courtyard and the Palace

The chateau was the kingdom’s political capital and the seat of the Royal court from 1682 until 1789 when revolutionaries massacred the palace guard. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were ultimately dragged back to Paris and guillotined. The chateau remained intact but most of the interior furnishings disappeared during the revolution.

As we waited for our tour of the king’s private apartment, we had the privilege of viewing the gardens early in the day before any of the tourists arrived.

Overlooking one of the many gardens in morning dawn; considered the epitome of French formal gardens showcasing symmetry

Overlooking one of the many gardens in morning dawn; considered the epitome of French formal gardens showcasing symmetry

The French countryside was peaceful and it was easy to imagine all the Kings courtiers in the gardens. Louis XIV’s court was 4000-strong and no expense was spared to employ the greatest artists and craftspeople of the day to create the most extravagant dormitory in history, surrounded by 800 hectares of gardens and lands (approximately 2,050 acres).

Apollo fountain depicting the Sun God Apollo rising out of the sea,

Apollo fountain depicting the Sun God Apollo rising out of the sea,

Known as the Marly machine, the largest hydraulic work of the era was undertaken under Louis XIV to supply Seine water to the numerous pools, fountains and waterfalls of the gardens of Versailles.  Behind the Apollo Fountain stretched the Grand Canal providing a luminous vista, and was the setting for water festivals and boats sailing on it.

image

Sample tree-lined road on the grounds at Versailles

The King’s appartements shows how the king lived, worked, and played.

King's apartment

King’s apartement

King's fascination with clocks was this extraordinary timepiece

King’s fascination with clocks was this extraordinary timepiece

In his bedroom, the king slept, held ceremonies, had lunch (Petit convert dinner), with up to 150 courtiers and people invited from outside the court, watching (in the 18th century). By the 1780’s, the king’s life had become more private, but imagine having 150 people observing you as you arose, dressed, ate, and conducted your day.

The ceremony of dressing became a ritual during Louis XIV’s reign, where dressing, having your hair done and makeup applied was part of the act for the public to observe.  Even the queen giving birth was on public display in the queen’s appartement for crowds of spectators to watch, ensuring the newborn’s legitimacy.

The Royal chapel at Versailles was the setting in 1770 for the wedding of the future King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.

Upper story of the Royal Chapel

Balcony of the Royal Chapel

The Royal schedule was as predictable as a Swiss watch, with the King in his bedchamber and the Queen in her bedchamber rousing at 8 am for the ceremony of the Petit Lever and the Grand Lever (the act of rising and dressing in public view).

Ceiling mural in the Royal Chapel

Ceiling mural in the Royal Chapel

The Royal procession was then lead through the hall of mirrors to the Royal chapel for morning mass and returned to the Council Chamber for late-morning meetings with ministers.

Chambers in the King's apartments

Chambers in the King’s apartments

King's library

King’s library

King's desk

Louis XV’s roll-top secretary, took 9 years to make and is a mechanical marvel

After lunch (referred to as Petit convert dinner served in the King’s bedroom), the king might ride or hunt or visit his library. Later he could join courtesans for an ‘appartement evening,’ extra work session or play billiards before supping at 10 pm (called Grand convert dinner).  At 11:30 pm was the retiring ceremony (Coucher) — all done in public view.

One of many opulent carpets in the king's apartments

One of many opulent carpets in the king’s apartments

THE GRAND TRIANON

After a lovely lunch break outside under the trellis in a cafe tucked away in the gardens, we walked from the main palace to the Grand Trianon. Built in 1687, the Grand Trianon is a small palace of pink marble.  Built by Louis XIV to escape the pomp and ceremony of the court, the Grand Trianon was also the setting for Louis XIV’s love affair with Madame de Montespan.

image

Looking from the courtyard to the Grand Trianon

A view of the gardens from a wing of The Grand Trianon facing the walkway

A view of the gardens from a wing of The Grand Trianon facing the walkway

image

Bed chambers of the Grand Trianon

A Royal mistress was called a favorite.  Louis XIV’s favorites were Duchess de La Vallière, the Marquis de Montespan, and the Marquise de Maintenon.

Walkway of the Grand Trianon

Walkway of the Grand Trianon

image

Malachite Salon in the Grand Trianon

image

Rooms of the Grand Trianon

image

Talk about contrasting colors — almost hurts the eyes

Famed for its French formal gardens in geometrical patterns, the marble Trianon was surrounded by tens of thousands of hardy and tuberous plants. The plants were planted in pots that could be changed every day and thus create a colorful and scented spectacle.

Gardens of the Grand Trianon

Gardens of the Grand Trianon

image

Bill looks back toward the Grand Trianon

image

Another view of the gardens with a wing of The Grand Trianon behind

Other famous occupants of the Grand Trianon were Napolean Bonaparte and his second wife Empress Marie Louise and King Louise-Philippe. General De Gaulle took on its restoration to host guests of the republic.

General DeGaulle photo in the "Trianon -sous-Bois"

General DeGaulle photo in the “Trianon -sous-Bois”

By this time, it was pretty hard to absorb much, but I do recall standing in front of a photo for a long time, thinking to myself the photo must represent more the actual affairs of men than all the grand, infamous lives of the king’s and the court that historians write about.  Notice the look of concentration on the Ministere’s face — looks like hard work to me.

Photo of Andre Malraux, Ministere des Affaires

Photo of Andre Malraux, Ministere des Affaires

Set for a State dinner

Set for a State dinner

THE PETITE TRIANON

The Petite Trianon was built between 1762 and 1768 for the private use of Louis XV and and his favorite, Madame De Pompadour, again to escape the rigors of the court in privacy.

The Salon de compagnie, game room and music room of the Petit Trianon

The Salon de compagnie, game room and music room of the Petit Trianon

Sofa and arm chairs placed in the Petit Trianon in 1868

Sofa and arm chairs placed in the Petit Trianon in 1868

Queens bedroom which was occupied by Marie Antoinette from 1777-1789

Queens bedroom which was occupied by Marie Antoinette from 1777-1789

Looking fashionable “avoir bel air” was common at court

Queens bedroom in Petit Trianon

Queens bedroom in Petit Trianon

In 1774 Louis XVI gave the petite Trianon to Marie-Antoinette and it became her refuge. It is surrounded by English-style landscaped plants.

View of Garden of Plants that Gardeners and Botanist Bernard De Jussieu began creating in 1750

View of Garden of Plants that Gardeners and Botanist Bernard De Jussieu began creating in 1750

One of four paintings in Grand Dining Room titled Fishing by Gabriel-Francois Doyen

One of four paintings in Grand Dining Room titled Fishing by Gabriel-Francois Doyen — Fishing? 

Elaborate wainscoting by Honoré Guibert in the Petit Trianon

Elaborate wainscoting by Honoré Guibert in the Petit Trianon

Eventually Marie-Antoinette began constructing the Queen’s Hamlet, a peasant village built around a lake with rustic workshops on the outskirts of her property.  The hameau included a working farm that raised animals and grew crops.

artist Olafur Eliasson Modern fountain installed at Versailles 2016

Artist Olafur Eliasson Modern fountain installed at Versailles 2016

Apollo Fountain at day's end

Apollo Fountain at day’s end

Sun setting on gardens at Versailles

Sun setting on gardens at Versailles

Days end at palace at Versailles

Days end at palace at Versailles

After touring this last palace, we ran-walked back to the entrance to Versailles to catch our cab for home.

A portrayal of what the Grand Canal must have looked like in the days of the Royal court

A portrayal of what the Grand Canal must have looked like in the days of the Royal court

What a grand palace and accomplishment for Louis XIV, the Chateau de Versailles, with its gardens, palaces, fountains, grand canal, it’s royal court, courtiers, spies, military guards, servants, 2,300 rooms, 300 sculptures, 2000+ Windows.  And the entertainment:  celebrations, fireworks, theater, ballet, hunting, music, board games, games of chance, billiards, Jeu de paume, boating — no time for boredom.  The Palace is a museum today dedicated to “all the glories of France.”  On September 3, 1783, the Treaty of Versailles was signed here which establishes the independence of the United States of America.  There were 7.7 million visitors to the Versailles Estate in 2014.

Bill trying to read map but a sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

Bill trying to read map but sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

 

Arriving Paris September 8, 2016

Imagine the excitement.  After planning for months, thinking about packing, packing, driving to LA, flying overnight, landing in France at CDG airport, taxi’ng to the 6th Arrondissement [6e], we are finally in Paris.  We first check into our hotel for the night, Hotel Atlantis at 4 Rue du Colombier.  We are in the St-Germain-des-Prés quartier, near Saint Sulpice Chapel.

Hotel Atlantis

Hotel Atlantis

Kirk and Marcy are right around the corner in their apartment where they have been living for a week.  We have been up for 24 hours I am sure, so after checking in, we longed for a shower and to stretch out.  Bags are delivered to our second-floor room overlooking the street by an attendant.  The elevator had just barely enough room for Bill and I if we stood facing one direction with our arms at our side, no movement.  With the windows open, all the excitement of Paris floats through the open window.

Welcoming Bed in the Hotel Atlantis

Welcoming Bed in the Hotel Atlantis

Overlooking the balcony of our room to street below

Before I realize it, I am asleep when I awake with a start, hearing people shouting and chanting, more shouting, more chanting, horns blaring, sirens. Jumping up to look out my balcony window, I see a street full of people with signs, balloons, loud speakers, and I don’t understand a word they are saying.  But apparently we have arrived just in time for a protest march.

Parisians marching in protest

Parisians marching in protest

The loud speaker continues to interrupt my attempt to rest and marchers keep coming for blocks.  I believe it is related to education. So begins our Parisian adventure.  No rest in sight, we meet up with Kirk and Marcy at their apartment for cheese, bread and wine and a tour of their pied-à-terre.  On the 4th floor, they have views in both directions, a kitchen, a separate bedroom, and lots of space and Paris nightlife entertains them at night through the open windows.  We set off at last for our first dining experience. Kirk has scouted the restaurants and found one he thinks will work.

Marcy leads the way to our dinner at Pizza Chic

Marcy leads the way to our dinner at Pizza Chic

Alas, it appears our restaurant is chic with lots of people and without a reservation on a Thursday night, cannot seat us.  An excuse to wander the streets, passing the patrons eating on the street and peering into restaurant after restaurant.  We finally decide on another Italian restaurant.  It is our first night in Paris.

Kirk contemplating at our Italian Restaurant

Kirk contemplating at our Italian Restaurant

We are all ready to get some rest in preparation for our auto trip to Le Pecq where we will board our Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin.

DAY 1 of Cruise

I can’t wait to find a cafe for morning cappuccino.  Our small table is right on the street where workmen are installing a Metro sign.  Always in Paris workmen are hammering, sawing and busy with construction.  Imagine our surprise when the cafe owner asks us politely to move our table toward the street just a pinch; not quite far enough, just another inch.  We comply, with no idea why he wanted our table moved two inches.  Then the owner pulls up the floor boards directly to the left of us to expose a large cavity beneath the restaurant.  A delivery man pushes in several loads of food and supplies that are stacked on a lift that disappears down the cavity, the floor boards are restored to their position and we are charmed by the ingenuity of the French to utilize every inch of space.  We continue with our cappuccino

Always so elegant, even on the sidewalk at table for two

Always so elegant, even on the sidewalk at table for two

First cappuccino and croissant in Paris

First cappuccino and croissant in Paris

kirk has arranged a van to pick the four of us up and drive us to Le Pecq.  But when I fry to fit myself and one luggage piece in the minuscule elevator, I end up jamming the elevator door.  I can’t seem to get the elevator to move and I can’t get the elevator door open.  Baffled, I finally decide I better get downstairs somehow so I force the door open, grab my suitcase and sprint down the stairs.  Kirk is waiting and the van is double parked.  Between Bill and I, we manage to shuffle the rest of the luggage down the stairs while waiting for the attendant, who has gone to see what the problem is.  Out the door we run and down the street.  Soon we are on our way through the French countryside and before we know it, arrive in Le Pecq where our ship hostess, Mimi, gives us a big welcome.

Our first glimpse of Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin

Our first glimpse of Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin

Our main task now was to find our staterooms, get unpacked, explore the ship, eat lunch, and be ready for our first tour of St. Germaine en Laye.  Remember what the first day of school was like?  Excitement, dread  new clothes, new classmates, learning so many things — I felt all of it.  So excited to be on our ship, home for eight nights, to see and learn as much as I could.

Our stateroom

Our stateroom

Our stateroom shower room

Our stateroom shower room

We were ready for lunch.  Our dining room was beautiful and the staff gracious and almost over-the-top with meeting our every need.

Our beautiful dining room aboard ship

Our beautiful dining room aboard ship

Cups, utensils, neatly lined up waiting for the 300 guests

Cups, utensils, neatly lined up waiting for the 300 guests

Our first tour was to St. Germaine en Laye just a short bus ride up the hill to the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, begun in 1124 by Louis VI as a fortified hunting-lodge in the forests of St Germain.  Next to the Chateau is a park with a view of Paris and the Seine.

Overlooking Paris from park next to Chateau, St. Germaine En Laye

Overlooking Paris from park next to Chateau, St. Germaine En Laye

War with England and subsequent actions resulted in the village and the chateau being burned between 1337 and 1346.  Charles V, the richest monarch in Europe, demolished the burned buildings, and between 1364 and 1367, rebuilt a château on the site of Saint Louis’ defensive walls.

Inside the Chateau

Inside the Chateau

Between1230 and 1238, the chapel was erected, separate from the other buildings, and the entire complex was surrounded by a defensive wall.  The chapel survived the burning of the original chateau.

Chapel at Chateau St. Germaine En Laye

Chapel at Chateau St. Germaine En Laye

Today the Chateau is an archeological museum which we did not go through.  We were on the run to catch the bus up the hill (we missed the first bus), then catch up with the first group from our ship, then a quick view of the chateau and chapel before we were ushered back on the bus.  Except for those of us that preferred to walk back down, which, of course, Kirk, Marcy, Bill and I did.

Trekking down steps and road to our ship

Trekking down steps and road to our ship

We stopped at a church to read the plaque (which was in French) but I was more intrigued by the beautiful, old tree that shaded the courtyard.

Beautiful, old tree

Beautiful, old tree

The chapel

The chapel

Kirk, Marcy, and Bill studying the plaque

Kirk, Marcy, and Bill studying the plaque

We rushed back down the hill, but not so fast that we didn’t stop to enjoy the goats in someone’s yard along the way.

Goats on the path down

Goats on the path down

Our first day with Viking was passing too quickly.  Back on the ship, we showered and dressed for dinner.  But first was cocktail hour (we skipped), safety briefing (all on deck with life jackets even though the depth of water was hardly enough to drown in) and Welcome Briefing with our Program Director Mimi.

Briefings every evening with Mimi who charmed us all

Briefings every evening with Mimi who charmed us all

Mimi not only briefed us on the following day’s events, but kept us laughing with her stories.  Mimi was down-to-earth and outstanding at her job and was a favorite among all the passengers.  We had our first of many dinners on board, with staff bending over backwards to fill every empty glass, bring any tantalizing dish we desired, and enough food for an entire day with dessert.

Typical dining experince

Typical dining experince

Then we were off to talk to the concierge about arranging a taxi to take the four of us to Versailles the following day while most of the passengers had an excursion to Paris, about 40minutes by taxi from Le Pecq.

Swans on the Seine outside my stateroom window

Swans on the Seine outside my stateroom window

How was one to sleep?  So much had happened in the last 48 hours and tomorrow we would leave for Versailles early to arrive before the crowds.  Well, I don’t think we did sleep much that night.  We were too busy thinking of all we had seen and all that was to come.

Watching a barge go by from the upper deck

Watching a barge go by from the upper deck

Barge passing us

Barge passing us

Coming Up.  Day 2  Versailles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas in Sayulita, 2015

It was an hours drive north from Puerto Vallarta to Sayulita.  We drove through dense jungle terrain lining the road and a few small, rural towns selling coconuts at roadside stands and other fruits and vegetables.

Looking down the hill from Casa Hermosa.  Very steep and treacherous so Bill and I hold hands when traversing up or down to prevent falls.

image We arrive by a taxi van and drive right past the Casa.  The taxi van tries to turn around on the steep street but his engine just stalls and tires spin.  The driver backs up to have another go at it and finally gets enough traction to drive up and turns into a driveway.  Now all the driver has to do is back his van up the hill which also proves difficult but on the second try, we are headed in the right direction, back down the hill.  We unload the suitcases as fast as we can as another car is waiting behind us on the one lane road.  I wonder how the emergency brake can hold the van from rolling down the hill.

image

Everwhere Casa Hermosa has beautiful curves and artistic finishes like this wall onto the street, undulating like a serpent and ombré sun burnt walls.

image

Casa Hermosa sign with walls are topped by lovely ironwork which also serves as a deterrent to any would-be thieves.

image

Once inside the gated walls, you enter the Casa’s upper floor through these doors.

image The living room

We all rush to explore the Casa Hermosa, pick bedrooms, unpack suitcases, shower and get comfortable.  The temperatures are warm, but the humidity makes us damp and our clothes cling to us.  We find the plunge pool is the best way to cool down.  While getting into the pool we Yelp at the cold water but once submerged we feel cool and comfortable.

image  Kitchen

image Our bathroom opens to pool

image From our shower, looking over wall toward plunge pool and open sky

image Steps down to lower floor  needless to say, we immediately made the first house rule.  Anyone descending stairs must have one hand on the bannister.  This saved us many times as not only was the street to town treacherous and steep, but these stairs were steep and twisting so that falling, especially at night, would have been all too easy.

image I loved the different tiles on each step.  Every detail in the Casa was chosen with an artistic eye for detail and executed beautifully.

 

image Looking from the entry toward the BBQ area — more steps.

image Looking down the steps to lower floor.  The two bedrooms were on the lower floor, each with its own bathroom.  The entire Casa was planted with plants that seemed well tended and were growing beautifully.  Wish my own plants at home looked half as nice.

image View from main floor patio

image Summer Jane, Bill and Bill dressed for dinner just leaving Casa Hermosa on left and heading down steep hill to town, about a ten to fifteen-minute walk.

image Drinks on the beach before heading to town

imagePiñata’s line the sidewalks waiting for buyers for Christmas Eve, a tradition in Mexico

image On the streets of Sayulita

image What fun we had watching the kids swing at the piñata. Billy was laughing the most I heard from him so far as an older girl swung with all her gusto and made a hit each time, despite the piñata being raised and lowered.  We watched until it was dark and the piñata’s had all been razed by enthusiastic kids.  Every night the zocalo was filled with children and adults celebrating.

image After dinner, this is Summer Jane’s favorite ice cream stand.  You can see Summers back and Bills back as they make their choices from the delicacies.

image  The plunge pool is to the leftimage  From the top of stair looking out.  The Casa had a huge palapa roof that covered the main living area, but there were some areas with no roof.  The entire Casa was, therefore, open to the outdoors  that is the reason for the high walls with ironwork above them.  To keep the bugs away while sleeping, the bedrooms did have screen Windows and if you kept the bedroom door closed and door to bathroom closed, you could sleep with no mosquitoes bothering you.

image  Connie and Summer Janeimage  The boys ordering drinks at our beach bar.  We found this nice bar where we could sit and watch the last of the surfers before sunset.  The bar was the size of a small room with a patio that faced the ocean.  Chairs were lined up at the edge and there were always people filling the chairs to catch the last of the day on the beach.  I got a kick out of the people painting their restaurants and bars right up to the last moment before Cnristmas Eve.  This evening I watched a young man paint lettering and designs on the sand bags at the edge of the patio while patrons watched the sun set.

image  bIlland Summer Janeimage Summer takes a selfie

image Walking the streets after dinner.  See the pretty paper flags put up over the street for celebrating New Years.  Our first fish dinner had to be considered gourmet cuisine, although it was a locally owned Mexican family restaurant.  We looked out over the Zacalo from our dinner table.  The fish was fresh caught and exquisitely prepared.  All the food we ate was quite excellent.  We had everything from fish to Mexican to Italian to pizza and all outstanding.  Although Sayulita is a small Mexican town, I was told that it is inhabited by Americans and Canadians and a lot of the real estate is owned by same.  That makes sense as our landlord had an address in California.

image Great place for a napimage this view is shot from the couch Bill is laying on, above, and towards the kitchen trying to let you see the palapa roof and hanging lamps.  Very cool.  The top of the palapa had another small roof over it, for ventilation I imagine.

image More relaxing at the Casa

image Our Christmas Eve dinner was at this fun, little pizza place just down the hill.  Every night we would walk past and it would be packed so we knew it must be good.  We had to wait for a table so went to another little restaurant a few doors down for drinks.  Summer went a few doors the other direction for two bottles of wine because the pizza place didn’t serve wine but would serve our purchased wine. We loved the food at this little restaurant and the tomato and cheese plate was the best we had had; we were certain the tomatoes were fresh from a local farm, with fresh basil.  We loved our waiter and he jumped at the chance to have his photo taken.  We asked about desert and the waiter yelled, Cuenta (check in Spanish) so they didn’t make dessert either, just extra good food.

image  Christmas Day on the beachimage  The beach bunnies and Bill  I am waving with my sprained thumb.  I took the surf rider out with me and waited a very long time before I felt it was just right to jump in.  The next thing I remember was struggling to surface and gasping for air. I can only guess the wave caught the surf rider and me and flipped the surf board and me topsy turvy.  I swam like my life depended on it to get beyond the surf where it was calm.  My thumb still hurts, weeks later.  SJ had me ice it and that helped with the swelling but it is still swollen and I have learned how much I use my thumb, now that I can’t.

image  Summer ready for a dip

image  There she goes.  The water was warm as bath water and wonderful swimming.  During our last few days the surf was very mild and I managed to get in without getting my hair wet.  The first time I got in, I stood and looked for eternity, trying to decide if I could do it as the surf was rougher that day.  Then suddenly Bill poked me in the back and said “go, swim, farther, go, go, go” and before I knew it, I was way out beyond the surf.  We surged with each wave as it headed toward shore and bounced with the tides.  It was great fun.

image  Summer had a great swimimage  Beach peddler.  The people are so amazing that peddle their wares day in and day out, walking up and down the beach.  They take rejection so well, turning to go on their way to the next group.  It must be fatiguing and heavy to carry so much trudging though the sand.  One young boy rushed past me with a wheelbarrow peddling ice cream.  It was very difficult pushing a wheelbarrow through the sand with a heavy load but the boy didn’t seem bothered.

Here we have a beach band playing a song for us.image image  Bill and Summer Jane

image  Back at the Casa at sunset

image  Bill went to town and purchased shrimp, carne, some vegetables, rice, bread, peppers, beer and champagne and hauled it up the hill.  For Christmas Dinner, Summer prepared a sumptuous feast.  Here Bill and Bill Jr. are deveining shrimp.  They worked diligently for a good deal of time focused on their task.  Yum!  We had a delicious home-cooked meal.

image  I got to set the table and found some candles and Christmas ribbon for a festive table, some placemats rolled away in a drawer with Mexican pottery plates.

image After dinner we played a most unusual card game that Bill and Summer knew well and taught Bill and I.  It was a crazy game with some words I didn’t understand but Bill and Summer laughed a lot so they must have understood what the words meant.

image  Bill and SJ night on the townimage  Connie heading down the hillimage  Typical Sayulita streetimage  Scenes of townimage  Typical sidewalk taco standimage  Wall of flowersimage  Vegetables at roadside restaurant.  This will be someone’s dinner tonight

..image  Colorful businessimage  Business folds down when open and folds up when closed.  Or is it the opposite:  up when open, down when closed.   Innovative!

image  A local cafeimage  View from Espresso Cafe.  I discovered a delicacy here, fresh baked bread roll. You could have your pan dulce covered with Mexican beans or a sweet bread roll, which they toasted, buttered and sprinkled with sugar.  Once I had the sweet bread, I was hooked and put on several pounds sitting here in the morning eating a sweet pan dulce with cappuccino, facing the zocalo and watching the people and town square.

image I would sit at the counter facing the street with this view.

image  View from the cafeimage  Cafe El Espresso

The last photos below are of some of the beautiful plants at Casa Hermosa.

imageimage

imageimageimage

image Doors to bedroomsimage Bedroom wallimage Even the door jamb had a   design.  The designer planned everything to have esthetic appeal.  Below are more of the beautiful plants.

imageimage

I just couldn’t end my story without a closeup photo of a typical steep street below.  See how the stones are placed so cars can get traction.  Also notice how hard this is to walk on, very uneven but practical.  After I abandoned my cute sandals for my practical sandals, I had no more trouble although Bill and I still held hands going up and down.

image

Below are the entrance doors to Casa Hermosa.

image

Time to say goodbye to Sayulita and Casa Hermosa.

image

The End

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico! 2015

image

We arrive to Premier Villas and Spa, a condominium hotel, on the beach.  We are jet lagged the first day, but because we have purchased all inclusive, all meals, beverages, and room have already been paid for.  So I find myself on one of these chaise lounges for the good part of a day, dozing, watching people on the beach, and generally winding down.

image

Above is The pool bar with the beach palapas beyond.  The staff works day in and day out getting the Villas spotless, serving us food and drink, and keeping everyone happy.  We enjoyed ordering snacks from the bar as we never were quite sure what we would receive.  Vegetables and dip turned out to be sticks of celery, jicama, cucumber, carrots with a red liquid we were told was “not spicy” and tasted a little like paprika.

image

Above is the pool bar from the opposite direction with Puerto Vallarta skyline in the background.  Our villas were located just on the edge of the downtown, between downtown and the Hotel Zone.  Only seven stories, Premier Villas felt like a small family.  Never crowded, with lots of room on the chaises, and the palapas at the beach.

image

Bill, above, might have just,come from a swim in the ocean.  We really liked the sandy beach and were very close to the ocean.

image

Connie after enjoying breakfast.  The outdoor patio dining enabled us to have a beautiful view while enjoying breakfast or lunch.  Most of the time, the food was very good; sometimes a bit unusual, almost always catering to foreign taste.

image

Here is our view from our patio dining table.  The ocean was as warm as bath water for swimming and not too rough to get in, although for tender feet the rocks made for a funny transition slipping first this way, then that way until finally emerging from the surf.

image

Beautiful hibiscus flower near the patio.

image

Above was a jetty that extended from our villas.  People always congregated at the end of this, sometimes fishing, sometimes looking in the ocean for ocean creatures, sometimes couples romancing, lots of photo shots, and Sunday a group of young men spent the entire day laying or sitting here watching life go by.

image

Another view from above of our breakfast table.  We spent only two nights at the Villas and our only excursion was a walk two blocks to the malecon and walking another mile or so until we were too hot and tired to go much further.  Puerto Vallarta was humid, so even in the 80’s we got drenched in damp clothes quickly and were glad to return to our air conditioned room.  Then we got too cold quickly, and would go to our hotel balcony and watch the sun set, very relaxing and mellowing.

image

Bill and Connie after a morning swim on our last day.  We had a nice breakfast after our swim.  The Villas had a yoga instructor on the beach every morning at 9 am.  What a great way to stretch.  Even I could do the stretches so not advanced, just right!  Now we await our van with Bill and Summer Jane to take us to Sayulita, about one hour north of Puerto Vallarta.

We loved our stay at Premier Villas and Spa.  The all inclusive was perfect for us to get the most out of two nights and two days.  Staff was very thoughtful and did everything they could to fulfill our needs.  We used room service several times and it was much quicker than I imagined it would be and everything came exactly as ordered.  On arrival, we were greeted with a short massage and champagne.  Drinks were prolific; no skimping here; as soon as our glass was empty, another glass came filled with same spirit or beverage.  This is an all adult property, very quiet.  The pool and pool bar closed at 6 pm.  But one could get up with the sun and have the entire beach to themselves.  Security was posted at both entrances and kept the vendors at bay and a watchful eye on the guests and their property.  We were even given a better price than quoted because they said we didn’t stay an entire second day.