Category Archives: Paris

Day 3: Giverny, Monet’s Gardens, & Vernon

GIVERNEY

Sunday and we rise and shine, get a quick breakfast with an incredible array of choices on our ship, the Viking Kadlin, and hop on our bus for our excursion to Giverney. One always has to remember their headphones and it always happens that someone forgets. This morning we depart at 8:45 am.

Monet actually came to Giverny in 1883 when he was 43 and eventually was able to buy the large house with two acres of gardens, called the “Clos Normand” by his family.

Map of Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet

Happy cows next to Monet’s property, Seine Valley

We enter the gardens early and have them to ourselves. The land was purchased in 1895 for the gardens. Monet diverted the Epte to make a lily pond and the resulting garden, with flowers spilling onto paths, and the famous “Tea-garden” bridge flanked by a mighty Willow. The gardens have 100,000 annuals and even more perennials. Although Claude Monet is famous for his paintings, I believe he was a gardener extraordinaire. Sit back and enjoy my photos of the gardens called Jardin d’ Eau (Water Garden).

Plants everywhere, even growing underwater

Boat on the lily pond

The famous weeping willows with water lilies covering the pond.

Japanese bridge in background; to right Kirk and Marcy

Even benches have an amazing esthetic

While viewing these beautiful gardens, some history of Claude Monet. Monet’s mother died when Claude was 16 and Claude was taken under his aunt’s wing. While visiting the Louvre in Paris, Claude observed many budding artists copying the old masters. But Claude, using a different approach, sat by a window and painted what he saw. Disillusioned with the traditional art taught at universities, Claude found a teacher in Charles Gleyre in Paris and it was here he met Renoir, Sisley and Bazille.

Over time, however, Monet became disillusioned by the teaching of Gleyre, finding it too academic for his independent spirit. During the 1860’s, Monet and Renoir started to work in similar lines and painted together. At the time Monet was so poor he was constantly having to borrow money. Renoir would bring food to Monet to keep him from starving, despite being very poor himself.

Monet married Camille Doncieux in 1870. Prior to their marriage, Camille became the model for many of Monet’s well-known paintings such as The Woman in the Green Dress. When Camille became pregnant and gave birth to their son, Jean (1867), Monet became so despondent over financial woes he threw himself in the Seine to end his life, unsuccessfully. The Royal Academy refused authorization for Monet’s art to be included in their 1871 exhibition.

Rudbeckia’s or black-eyed susans

Monet became one of a group of artists labeled “revolutionaries” by the Salon and he along with Pissarro, Sisley, Degas, Cézanne, and Renoir organized an exhibition of their own, the first Impressionist Exhibition (1874), at the time known as ‘Intransigents’. The critics were not favorable, saying their art was banal and they have never understood nature. The group was derided as incompetents and were attacked in condescending terms.

By the accepted art world of the time, the group of impressionist artists were considered defiant, rebellious and adamant in their refusal of accepted conventions. Monet was described as a violent anti-academic and the most forceful of the group of radical painters, yet certainly considered the leader of Impressionist Plein-air painting.

Dahlias, asters, cosmos, sunflowers are some of the flowers blooming this time of year.

Monet struggled financially. At Argenteuil he had been evicted from his cottage for defaulting on the rent. Manet procured a new home for Monet. The 1874 Impressionist Exhibition made a loss. To offset the losses, an Auction was organized by Renoir and the results were disasterous.

In 1876, Monet had found a new patron, Ernest Hoschedé. Monet moved to new painting territory from Argenteuil to Vétheuil farther down the Seine River. Here a second child was born, Michel, and here Camille died a painful death, probably from cancer. She was only 32.

Monet invited the Hoschedés to join he and the bedridden Camille in Vétheuil so into their home moved Alice Hoschedé with her husband, Ernest, and their six children and three servants. Shortly after Camille’s death, Ernest left Vétheuil while Alice continued to live with Monet. After Ernest Hoschedé’s death in 1891, Monet and Alice were married. By 1883, Monet and his household had moved from Vétheuil to Giverny and Monet was able to purchase the Giverny estate in 1890.

BEAUTIFUL VARIETY OF DAHLIAS IN MONETS GARDENS

Not sure what this plant, below is but I love the fuzzy, purple colors like little puff balls

Now we come to the gardens in front of Monet’s home, Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet. The pastel-pink stone farmhouse has been lovingly restored and is now a museum. Monet lived for 43 years in this home.

Monet was 43 when he came to Giverney with Alice Hoschedés, her six children, and his two.

View from an upstairs bedroom on the Monet home.

Bedroom of th Monet Home with original art, including a Renoir

Dining area of Monet home in yellow. Marcy on the left.

Copper pots in the kitchen.

Green shutters and steps accent pink farmhouse, Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet

Can you make out the haystacks to the right of middle of photo (below), actually called grainstacks. Monet did a series of paintings of these grainstacks with different effects of light and instantaniety–grainstacks in winter, in snow, in morning light, in summer, on cloudy days and is well known for these grainstack paintings.

Marcy and I in front of one of the shops in the town of Giverney.

Charming town of Giverney

Below Marcy, Connie, Kirk

Monet lovingly cultivated his gardens and lily ponds and painted until his death (1926).

Monet’s art is at Musée D Orsay and Musée National De L’Orangerie in Paris. If you are like me, you will love the beauty of these Plein air style paintings, water lilies, sailboats, women in the garden, luncheon on the grass, study of a figure outdoors — a sense you are outdoors in the sunlight, wind, clouds, light and shadow enjoying nature.

Day 2 Versailles Palace and Gardens

Leave a reply

ARRIVING VERSAILLES

Our cab ride to Versailles, a distance of about seven miles from Le Pecq, was quick and easy, getting us to the Chateau before the crowds. Clear skies and sunshine greeted us as we drove through the town.

Statue of Louis XIV

Louis XIV was known as the “Sun King,” chosing the sun as his emblem, in reference to Apollo, the Greek god of peace and the arts. He became king at the age of 5. It was under his reign that the small palace or hunting lodge was transformed into the royal residence. It took 30 years to complete.

Entering the Chateau at Versailles — see if you can spot Kirk, Bill and Marcy

The site of Versailles was originally chosen, among other reasons, so Louis XIV could shelter his love affair with his mistress, Louise de La Vallière, one among many. Versailles became the official seat of Royal power May 6, 1682

Statue on the gate in front of Chateau

Kirk, Marcy and Bill at the entry gates to the chateau of Versailles

A peek into the Royal Courtyard and the Palace

The chateau was the kingdom’s political capital and the seat of the Royal court from 1682 until 1789 when revolutionaries massacred the palace guard. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were ultimately dragged back to Paris and guillotined. The chateau remained intact but most of the interior furnishings disappeared during the revolution.

As we waited for our tour of the king’s private apartment, we had the privilege of viewing the gardens early in the day before any of the tourists arrived.

Overlooking one of the many gardens in morning dawn; considered the epitome of French formal gardens showcasing symmetry

The French countryside was peaceful and it was easy to imagine all the Kings courtiers in the gardens. Louis XIV’s court was 4000-strong and no expense was spared to employ the greatest artists and craftspeople of the day to create the most extravagant dormitory in history, surrounded by 800 hectares of gardens and lands (approximately 2,050 acres).

Apollo fountain depicting the Sun God Apollo rising out of the sea,

Known as the Marly machine, the largest hydraulic work of the era was undertaken under Louis XIV to supply Seine water to the numerous pools, fountains and waterfalls of the gardens of Versailles. Behind the Apollo Fountain stretched the Grand Canal providing a luminous vista, and was the setting for water festivals and boats sailing on it.

Sample tree-lined road on the grounds at Versailles

The King’s appartements shows how the king lived, worked, and played.

King’s apartement

King’s fascination with clocks was this extraordinary timepiece

In his bedroom, the king slept, held ceremonies, had lunch (Petit convert dinner), with up to 150 courtiers and people invited from outside the court, watching (in the 18th century). By the 1780’s, the king’s life had become more private, but imagine having 150 people observing you as you arose, dressed, ate, and conducted your day.

The ceremony of dressing became a ritual during Louis XIV’s reign, where dressing, having your hair done and makeup applied was part of the act for the public to observe. Even the queen giving birth was on public display in the queen’s appartement for crowds of spectators to watch, ensuring the newborn’s legitimacy.

The Royal chapel at Versailles was the setting in 1770 for the wedding of the future King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.

Balcony of the Royal Chapel

The Royal schedule was as predictable as a Swiss watch, with the King in his bedchamber and the Queen in her bedchamber rousing at 8 am for the ceremony of the Petit Lever and the Grand Lever (the act of rising and dressing in public view).

Ceiling mural in the Royal Chapel

The Royal procession was then lead through the hall of mirrors to the Royal chapel for morning mass and returned to the Council Chamber for late-morning meetings with ministers.

Chambers in the King’s apartments

King’s library

Louis XV’s roll-top secretary, took 9 years to make and is a mechanical marvel

After lunch (referred to as Petit convert dinner served in the King’s bedroom), the king might ride or hunt or visit his library. Later he could join courtesans for an ‘appartement evening,’ extra work session or play billiards before supping at 10 pm (called Grand convert dinner). At 11:30 pm was the retiring ceremony (Coucher) — all done in public view.

One of many opulent carpets in the king’s apartments

THE GRAND TRIANON

After a lovely lunch break outside under the trellis in a cafe tucked away in the gardens, we walked from the main palace to the Grand Trianon. Built in 1687, the Grand Trianon is a small palace of pink marble. Built by Louis XIV to escape the pomp and ceremony of the court, the Grand Trianon was also the setting for Louis XIV’s love affair with Madame de Montespan.

Looking from the courtyard to the Grand Trianon

A view of the gardens from a wing of The Grand Trianon facing the walkway

Bed chambers of the Grand Trianon

A Royal mistress was called a favorite. Louis XIV’s favorites were Duchess de La Vallière, the Marquis de Montespan, and the Marquise de Maintenon.

Walkway of the Grand Trianon

Malachite Salon in the Grand Trianon

Rooms of the Grand Trianon

Talk about contrasting colors — almost hurts the eyes

Famed for its French formal gardens in geometrical patterns, the marble Trianon was surrounded by tens of thousands of hardy and tuberous plants. The plants were planted in pots that could be changed every day and thus create a colorful and scented spectacle.

Gardens of the Grand Trianon

Bill looks back toward the Grand Trianon

Another view of the gardens with a wing of The Grand Trianon behind

Other famous occupants of the Grand Trianon were Napolean Bonaparte and his second wife Empress Marie Louise and King Louise-Philippe. General De Gaulle took on its restoration to host guests of the republic.

General DeGaulle photo in the “Trianon -sous-Bois”

By this time, it was pretty hard to absorb much, but I do recall standing in front of a photo for a long time, thinking to myself the photo must represent more the actual affairs of men than all the grand, infamous lives of the king’s and the court that historians write about. Notice the look of concentration on the Ministere’s face — looks like hard work to me.

Photo of Andre Malraux, Ministere des Affaires

Set for a State dinner

THE PETITE TRIANON

The Petite Trianon was built between 1762 and 1768 for the private use of Louis XV and and his favorite, Madame De Pompadour, again to escape the rigors of the court in privacy.

The Salon de compagnie, game room and music room of the Petit Trianon

Sofa and arm chairs placed in the Petit Trianon in 1868

Queens bedroom which was occupied by Marie Antoinette from 1777-1789

Looking fashionable “avoir bel air” was common at court

Queens bedroom in Petit Trianon

In 1774 Louis XVI gave the petite Trianon to Marie-Antoinette and it became her refuge. It is surrounded by English-style landscaped plants.

View of Garden of Plants that Gardeners and Botanist Bernard De Jussieu began creating in 1750

One of four paintings in Grand Dining Room titled Fishing by Gabriel-Francois Doyen — Fishing?

Elaborate wainscoting by Honoré Guibert in the Petit Trianon

Eventually Marie-Antoinette began constructing the Queen’s Hamlet, a peasant village built around a lake with rustic workshops on the outskirts of her property. The hameau included a working farm that raised animals and grew crops.

Artist Olafur Eliasson Modern fountain installed at Versailles 2016

Apollo Fountain at day’s end

Sun setting on gardens at Versailles

Days end at palace at Versailles

After touring this last palace, we ran-walked back to the entrance to Versailles to catch our cab for home.

A portrayal of what the Grand Canal must have looked like in the days of the Royal court

What a grand palace and accomplishment for Louis XIV, the Chateau de Versailles, with its gardens, palaces, fountains, grand canal, it’s royal court, courtiers, spies, military guards, servants, 2,300 rooms, 300 sculptures, 2000+ Windows. And the entertainment: celebrations, fireworks, theater, ballet, hunting, music, board games, games of chance, billiards, Jeu de paume, boating — no time for boredom. The Palace is a museum today dedicated to “all the glories of France.” On September 3, 1783, the Treaty of Versailles was signed here which establishes the independence of the United States of America. There were 7.7 million visitors to the Versailles Estate in 2014.

Bill trying to read map but a sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

Bill trying to read map but sleep overtakes him after a long day of signtseeing

Arriving Paris September 8, 2016

Leave a reply

Imagine the excitement. After planning for months, thinking about packing, packing, driving to LA, flying overnight, landing in France at CDG airport, taxi’ng to the 6th Arrondissement [6e], we are finally in Paris. We first check into our hotel for the night, Hotel Atlantis at 4 Rue du Colombier. We are in the St-Germain-des-Prés quartier, near Saint Sulpice Chapel.

Hotel Atlantis

Kirk and Marcy are right around the corner in their apartment where they have been living for a week. We have been up for 24 hours I am sure, so after checking in, we longed for a shower and to stretch out. Bags are delivered to our second-floor room overlooking the street by an attendant. The elevator had just barely enough room for Bill and I if we stood facing one direction with our arms at our side, no movement. With the windows open, all the excitement of Paris floats through the open window.

Welcoming Bed in the Hotel Atlantis

Before I realize it, I am asleep when I awake with a start, hearing people shouting and chanting, more shouting, more chanting, horns blaring, sirens. Jumping up to look out my balcony window, I see a street full of people with signs, balloons, loud speakers, and I don’t understand a word they are saying. But apparently we have arrived just in time for a protest march.

Parisians marching in protest

The loud speaker continues to interrupt my attempt to rest and marchers keep coming for blocks. I believe it is related to education. So begins our Parisian adventure. No rest in sight, we meet up with Kirk and Marcy at their apartment for cheese, bread and wine and a tour of their pied-à-terre. On the 4th floor, they have views in both directions, a kitchen, a separate bedroom, and lots of space and Paris nightlife entertains them at night through the open windows. We set off at last for our first dining experience. Kirk has scouted the restaurants and found one he thinks will work.

Marcy leads the way to our dinner at Pizza Chic

Alas, it appears our restaurant is chic with lots of people and without a reservation on a Thursday night, cannot seat us. An excuse to wander the streets, passing the patrons eating on the street and peering into restaurant after restaurant. We finally decide on another Italian restaurant. It is our first night in Paris.

Kirk contemplating at our Italian Restaurant

We are all ready to get some rest in preparation for our auto trip to Le Pecq where we will board our Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin.

DAY 1 of Cruise

I can’t wait to find a cafe for morning cappuccino. Our small table is right on the street where workmen are installing a Metro sign. Always in Paris workmen are hammering, sawing and busy with construction. Imagine our surprise when the cafe owner asks us politely to move our table toward the street just a pinch; not quite far enough, just another inch. We comply, with no idea why he wanted our table moved two inches. Then the owner pulls up the floor boards directly to the left of us to expose a large cavity beneath the restaurant. A delivery man pushes in several loads of food and supplies that are stacked on a lift that disappears down the cavity, the floor boards are restored to their position and we are charmed by the ingenuity of the French to utilize every inch of space. We continue with our cappuccino

Always so elegant, even on the sidewalk at table for two

First cappuccino and croissant in Paris

kirk has arranged a van to pick the four of us up and drive us to Le Pecq. But when I fry to fit myself and one luggage piece in the minuscule elevator, I end up jamming the elevator door. I can’t seem to get the elevator to move and I can’t get the elevator door open. Baffled, I finally decide I better get downstairs somehow so I force the door open, grab my suitcase and sprint down the stairs. Kirk is waiting and the van is double parked. Between Bill and I, we manage to shuffle the rest of the luggage down the stairs while waiting for the attendant, who has gone to see what the problem is. Out the door we run and down the street. Soon we are on our way through the French countryside and before we know it, arrive in Le Pecq where our ship hostess, Mimi, gives us a big welcome.

Our first glimpse of Viking Cruise Ship Kadlin

Our main task now was to find our staterooms, get unpacked, explore the ship, eat lunch, and be ready for our first tour of St. Germaine en Laye. Remember what the first day of school was like? Excitement, dread new clothes, new classmates, learning so many things — I felt all of it. So excited to be on our ship, home for eight nights, to see and learn as much as I could.

Our stateroom

Our stateroom shower room

We were ready for lunch. Our dining room was beautiful and the staff gracious and almost over-the-top with meeting our every need.

Our beautiful dining room aboard ship

Cups, utensils, neatly lined up waiting for the 300 guests

Our first tour was to St. Germaine en Laye just a short bus ride up the hill to the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, begun in 1124 by Louis VI as a fortified hunting-lodge in the forests of St Germain. Next to the Chateau is a park with a view of Paris and the Seine.

Overlooking Paris from park next to Chateau, St. Germaine En Laye

War with England and subsequent actions resulted in the village and the chateau being burned between 1337 and 1346. Charles V, the richest monarch in Europe, demolished the burned buildings, and between 1364 and 1367, rebuilt a château on the site of Saint Louis’ defensive walls.

Inside the Chateau

Between1230 and 1238, the chapel was erected, separate from the other buildings, and the entire complex was surrounded by a defensive wall. The chapel survived the burning of the original chateau.

Chapel at Chateau St. Germaine En Laye

Today the Chateau is an archeological museum which we did not go through. We were on the run to catch the bus up the hill (we missed the first bus), then catch up with the first group from our ship, then a quick view of the chateau and chapel before we were ushered back on the bus. Except for those of us that preferred to walk back down, which, of course, Kirk, Marcy, Bill and I did.

Trekking down steps and road to our ship

We stopped at a church to read the plaque (which was in French) but I was more intrigued by the beautiful, old tree that shaded the courtyard.

Beautiful, old tree

The chapel

Kirk, Marcy, and Bill studying the plaque

We rushed back down the hill, but not so fast that we didn’t stop to enjoy the goats in someone’s yard along the way.

Goats on the path down

Our first day with Viking was passing too quickly. Back on the ship, we showered and dressed for dinner. But first was cocktail hour (we skipped), safety briefing (all on deck with life jackets even though the depth of water was hardly enough to drown in) and Welcome Briefing with our Program Director Mimi.

Briefings every evening with Mimi who charmed us all

Mimi not only briefed us on the following day’s events, but kept us laughing with her stories. Mimi was down-to-earth and outstanding at her job and was a favorite among all the passengers. We had our first of many dinners on board, with staff bending over backwards to fill every empty glass, bring any tantalizing dish we desired, and enough food for an entire day with dessert.

Typical dining experince

Then we were off to talk to the concierge about arranging a taxi to take the four of us to Versailles the following day while most of the passengers had an excursion to Paris, about 40minutes by taxi from Le Pecq.

Swans on the Seine outside my stateroom window

How was one to sleep? So much had happened in the last 48 hours and tomorrow we would leave for Versailles early to arrive before the crowds. Well, I don’t think we did sleep much that night. We were too busy thinking of all we had seen and all that was to come.

Watching a barge go by from the upper deck

Barge passing us

Coming Up. Day 2 Versailles

Paris Pied-a-Terre and Paris Market

Leave a reply

We arrived Paris eager and exhausted. Our hostess, April Tash, met us on the Boulevard at 4:30 p.m. and spent over two hours chatting with us about the area, fascinating history of our apartment, and we even took a stroll of the neighborhood with April as she pointed out the boulangerie, pharmacie, wine shop, cafes, mini market, and the freshwater spring that still supplies the drinking water of the neighborhood. Below are photos of our apartment, beginning with arriving at the door on the street, then to the inner courtyard, and finally up a flight of very old stairs to the second floor.

Entry Door to 11 rue Moulin des Pres

Behind entry door a passageway to courtyard

Starting down the courtyard

The courtyard is very old and uneven

Walking down the courtyard is stepping back in time. Our neighborhood is a working class neighborhood with mixed tenants, some very poor and others well off. April, herself, is Harvard educated and works at the United Nations. Obviously April is not poor. But on the courtyard, you see spaces in front of other apartments fixed up for a garden, a patio area with table, and other things, some looking a step above a tenement, some looking cared for, but very mixed.

Family’s patio area in courtyard

Window geraniums in Courtyard

Gardening in the Courtyard

At the very far end of the courtyard about a block in length, is our apartment. The stairs are very old and with each step, you sway one way or another. The old steps seem to be holding the building up. There is a very modern light switch at the bottom of stairs that is connected to a sensor so that the light turns off after you have left the stairwell. Light is a necessity as the stairs are like an obstacle course.

Beginning ascent up stairwell

Our Stairwell, looking down from the top, it curves in a U shape

Bikes parked along the courtyard; for some, this is their transportation

Once you enter the apartment, you are transported to a Parisian pied-a’-terre. Every inch is packed with practical application. We found the ironing board stored under the sitting room beds. The dryer [an old-fashioned clothes drying rack] was stored behind the pantry [an armoire restored to hold plates and a few food items]. The iron was stored in the upper cabinet above the sink along with the hot water heater. The washing machine was behind a small cabinet under the toaster oven. The refrigerator was behind a cabinet door under the sink.

Our kitchen

April had hired an architect to update the apartment after purchasing. The architect had to make do with a building that could not have any holes knocked out for fear the entire building would collapse. Therefore, to run the AC, we open the window and hang the vent over the iron railing, and run the AC with window open.

Washing machine and dryer in one machine

Child’s chair crafted by owner’s father

I fell in love with the charm of our Parisian apartment. We had windows all along the courtyard and could open them for fresh air. The sun would pour into the sitting room and table in the afternoon. Armoires were used to store clothing and as a pantry.

Beautiful armoire in bedroom

Pantry armoire [door is open and shelves are lined with blue checkerboard paper]

Even though we thought we were exhausted, we ventured out that evening to the rue de la Butte Aux Cailles filled with cafes and bursting at the seams with young people drinking, smoking and probably eating as well. Everyone seemed under 30. We wandered until we came upon a Thai Restaurant and a delicious meal.

Eating on the street at our Thai Restaurant, one of our favorites

Of course we couldn’t wait to shop at the open air market on Auguste Blanqui where every Friday, Sunday and Tuesday the sidewalk is transformed to a market that goes for blocks of produce, flowers, cheese, clothes, rugs, soap, roasted chickens and potatoes, fresh fish, cheese, olives, spices. It was very trying for me to pretend I could shop, not knowing a word of French. By this time my head was so muddled with Italian and other languages, all that came out was Gratzie, muy bueno, as I fumbled for the right French word. Rather than rudeness, we encountered only patience and smiling tolerance at our befuddlement.

Vegetables at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Olives at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Spices, nuts and dates at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Sausages at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

One man felt so sorry for me, he tried to show me how to use my fingers to hold up how many peaches I wanted instead of trying to say the number of kilograms. He was very gracious.

Fish vendor at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

Flowers at La Butte aux Cailles open-air market

We arrived home to our apartment with a bounty of fresh fruit, bread, and wine, plenty to provide lunch and breakfast [as the French seem to only eat a croissant and coffee for breakfast].

One-days shopping in open-air market

We later strolled the streets of our neighborhood and found some of the original streets and single-family cottages.

Walking historical streets of our Paris neighborhood

Cottage homes in our Paris neighborhood

The neighborhood overflows with cafes and at any time of day locals flock to them to enjoy their cafe, wine, and smoke. There are also small parks and a fountain. There is a lot of very old history in this neighborhood, mixed with modern high rise apartments.

Fountain in La Butte aux Cailles

Closeup of Fountain

And so it goes. Learning the language, learning the French customs, learning the transportation system — we have challenges and many rewards. For now, I will say Au Revoir, until another day.

Looking from bedroom window to street below

Travelwithconnie

See Explore Go

Category Archives: Paris

Day 3: Giverny, Monet’s Gardens, & Vernon

Day 2 Versailles Palace and Gardens

Arriving Paris September 8, 2016

Paris Pied-a-Terre and Paris Market